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Scarpa Mescalito Boot

Scarpa's superb answer to the scrambling footwear dilemma


Posted: 27 October 2000
by Jon

Scarpa Mescalito Boot

Price: £120

Weight: 1448g (per pair, size 43)

Features: Crosta leather upper, Performance Flex mid-sole, Megabyte S sticky rubber sole and rand, Cambrelle lining.

Sticky walky, walky sticky, scrambly, climby...
Cards on the table, so far we've used these boots for just one weekend, but we're so bowled over, that we thought we'd tell you about them now then update the test with further use.

A bit of background: the Mescalito used to be the El Cap, basically the same boot ,with a combination of soft, comfortable uppers with a mid-sole that's stiff enough laterally to stand on small edges but flexible enought to walk in longitudinally, and, the killer app', a specially developed sticky rubber sole in conventional boot sole shape plus a substantial sticky rand at toe and heel for those vicious-foot torqueing crack moves. The rubber's also claimed to be durable enough for reasonable walking use. The boots are built on a last developed from climbing shoes which throws weight onto your big toe and the inside of your foot for better rock performance.

So what are they like? In a word, brilliant. Utterly comfortable for walking from the off, with just enough flex in the sole to keep feet happy. But it's on the rock that they really start to fly - hopefully not literally. The rubber is almost as grippy as dedicated rock boot compounds and we quickly developed a load of confidence in the Mescalito's ability to stick to holds. It's helped by a high degree of lateral stiffness which allows you to stand on the sort of nubbins that most walking boots would just roll or slide off.

They also function well jammed into cracks with no worries that the sole is going to fold in and slide out. Bad points? So far, very few. The rough finished Crosta leather isn't going to be as water resistant as a fully tanned hide, but then it's exceptionally comfortable.

We used them on a Grade 2/3 scramble and they were in their element, though they'd also be ideal for Via Ferratas, easy long alpine rock routes and, if you're up to it, I'd guess, UK rock up to about VS standard. The most natural scrambling boot we've ever used short of pukka rock boots and we've never used them on a scramble...

Verdict: Absolutely bloody fantastic. Solves the scrambling / Via Ferrata footwear dilemma in one brilliant swoop, they are so good it almost feels like cheating on scrambles and what's more, they're comfy for walking from the first day. We love 'em so far.

Performance

Value

Help me scramble across to Scarpa's UK web site

Pushed for time: Scarpa's dedicated scrambling,big wall, Via Ferrata boot is a revelation. Sticky but durable (so far) rubber, enough stiffness in the sole to cope with smallish edges and a shape developed from a climbing boot last mean these feel like part of your body and climb and scaramble with confidence-inspiring efficiency. Where they really score is in being comfortable for walking from day one meaning you can do the approach and the route in one pair of boots. If you're after a scrambling or Via Ferrata boot and it fits your foot then look no further. Fantastic. Don't expect total water tighness though.

 

Your Opinion Here:

If you'd like to add your own experiences of this product please e-mail us with a summary and we'll post them here in this handy space at the bottom of the page. If you have questions you can mail us direct, Ask Richard Gear or try a posting to our gear forum.


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Is a scrambling boot - however good - just an expensive luxury for spoiled journos or would you genuinely consider buying a pair for yourself? Of course when I were a lad we climbed in t'wet with socks over our gym shoes fur grip an all...

Posted: 31/10/2000 at 22:54

There was a time when it was common to climb in walking boots on grades up to VS. These days sticky rock shoes are used for climbing at all grades, and are the first piece of kit beginners buy (along with a harness). People have forgotten that it is possible to climb in boots.

At the standard of difficulty found on most scrambles ordinary boots should be entirely satisfactory. If you find yourself needing sticky soles, you should start questioning whether your're on a hard scramble or an easy climb, and should be equipped accordingly.

As a pair of climbing boots for lower-grade mountain classics, they might have a niche.

Posted: 04/11/2000 at 16:20

Look at a Nepalese porter negotiating all manner of tricky terrain in nothing more than flip flops, and you could be forgiven for thinking ALL of this fancy footwear is nothing more than an expensive luxury.

But that's not the point, is it? If you have specialist shoes for rock, ice and walking, then why not scrambling too?

The idea is to make the experience as comfortable and safe as possible. Flexible, grippy boots would allow you to use a wider variety of footholds, so reducing the amount of high-stepping and jugging that big boots can force you into on higher-grade scrambles or low grade climbs. This makes the whole experience more interesting as well as less tiring.

My reservation about this particular boot is its suitability for wet British conditions. Even if the rock isn't too bad, the approach is often soggy, and a scrambling boot needs to be able to cope with both. I've trashed the uppers of my Scarpa Freney boots(similar leather)in the last couple of weeks on boggy Scottish walk-ins. So I would see the Mescalito as a summer boot only. But still a nice idea if you've got the £.

Posted: 07/11/2000 at 15:36

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