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Which insoles to reduce knee pain on steep descents?

Lightweight overtrousers with full-length zips, are there any out there?

What gear do I need for the Ata Via 1 trek through the Dolomites?

Looking for a helmet-friendly windproof for alpine use.

What budget one-person tent to house a pack and person?

Is the Vango Typhoon 200 up to prolonged UK winter use?

How do I purify Scottish river water?

What tent for Scottish winer mountain trekking use?

Where can I find a replacement bladder for my TNF Hammerhead hydration pack?

What's so great about soft shell, mine leaks in the wet?

Question:
I own a waterproof shell jacket from The North Face - I can't remember it's name - it's been brilliant for about a year but it started to get saturated when it rained. I proofed it for the first time with a Storm proofer - Protector Plus I believe - but it still 'wets out' and doesn't give me the beaded look anymore! Can you help?!

Answer:

Hi there,

For one week only, no silly intro. As you've discovered, with use the factory applied DWR - Durable Water Repellant - treatment wears off and allows water to saturate the outer layer of the jacket. When this happens, your jacket will stop breathing effectively and probably leave you damp from condensation forming inside the jacket.

As you've noticed, the obvious sign of this is that water no longer beads and runs off the surface of the fabric. You're on the right path using a reproofer, but for the process to be effective, you do need to be quite thorough.

First, get hold of some specialist cleaner - Grangers, Nikwax and others all make them - or some pure soap flakes. Next, clean out the detergent drawer on your washing machine then run a boil wash cycle through it to remove traces of old detergent.

This is because normal washing powders and liquids contain additves which can compromise DWR treatments.

Next, wash the garment in the technical cleaner following the instructions on the care label. This should give you a clean jacket ready for reproofing.

If your jacket is a three-ply one, in other words made of just one thickness of fabric then you should use a wash-in treatment. If it's two-ply and has a mesh liner as well as an outer layer then use a spray-on reproofer. In both cases follow the instructions on the bottle.

Depending on which treatment you use, you may now have to heat the jacket using either a tumble drier or a cool iron - see care instructions - to activate the treatment. This is the case with Grangers, which is very close to the original DWR. If you use Nikwax, then there's no need to heat treat the garment.

If the proofer you use needs heat to activate it and you don't heat it, the new DWR will be next to useless. If your Storm reproofer instructions say you need to apply heat to activate it and you haven't then this is your problem and some low temperature tumble drying or careful ironing may solve your problem quickly and easily.

There is one final option - Grangers makes an all in one washer and reproofer, that you can use for three-ply jackets, though again it means heat treating it after application.

Once your jacket is beading happily again, wash it when dirty using a technical cleaner or pure soap flakes to keep performance working. If you have a heat-activated DWR, once it starts wearing off, a quick wash and tumble dry may be enough to get it working again. If not then you'll need to reproof.

The picture you linked to, by the way, is a North Face women's Mountain Lite Parka from 2004 :-)

Happy washing

Yours repellantly

Richard G

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