DMM Belay Master Reviews - Product Reviews

DMM Belay Master

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DMM Belay Master
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Average Rating: 4 out of 5
No. of Reviews: 8
RRP: £13

Description: Gate closed: 25kn Gate open: 7kn Weight: 100g.

REVIEWS

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rowan gay

Posted: 18/12/01

'DOES WHAT IT SAYS'

Strengths:
prevents cross gate loading which is the main problem if the leader falls on a big climb.

Weaknesses:
none but is slower (marginally) to do up than a standard screw gate crab

Overall:
very good for beginners as the swinging catch can only be done up once the gate is done up, so good saftey will stop crab falier due to cross gate loading

Performance		100%
Reliability		80%
Value		80%

Overall Rating

87%

Bill Sutherland

Posted: 12/05/03

'FOR THE SAFETY CONSCIOUS'

Strengths:
Used as dedicated locking karabiner for belaying and descending. The nylon swing clip can only by closed when the karabiner is screwed up hence the extra margin of safety. The device ensures that the belay loop of the harness remains at the little end of the karabiner and prevents any accidental cross loading during belaying or descending. It certainly works and on some particularly dodgy abseils it was always reassuring to hear the swing catch click into place. Similar confidence was also achieved during belaying, particularly on hanging or awkward belays where rope management was difficult.

Weaknesses:
The swing catch would only close at one position and it tended to work its way along the spine of the karabiner making it fiddly and awkward to close (slight drawback). The space for the belay loop was quite small and those in the habit of belaying on both the loop and the rope will have a struggle to close the catch.Is possible though.

Overall:
A good device giving extra margin of safety particularly for the beginner. I use an ATC belay device with mine which it works very well with.

Performance		80%
Reliability		100%
Value		80%

Overall Rating

87%

Stick abc

Posted: 15/05/03

'OTT'

Strengths:
does what it's meant to

Weaknesses:
gets in the way and is redundent if you can screw the gate closed

Overall:
I took the plastic bit off mine and I now have a perfectly good hms

Performance		40%
Reliability		80%
Value		40%

Overall Rating

53%

Ali James

Posted: 02/09/04

'HELPING HAND FOR BEGINERS'

Strengths:
Reminds kids (like me then) to do the screwgate up.
Positions the belay device in the right place.

Weaknesses:
Easy to lose plastic gate when not in use.

Overall:
Very good HMS and the extra safety device is a good help for youngsters and beginers alike. Just try not to lose the gate....

Performance		80%
Reliability		80%
Value		80%

Overall Rating

80%

Peter Williamson

Posted: 07/03/05

'GOOD, IF EXPENSIVE AND HEAVY'

Strengths:
I purchased one of these to use with a figure of 8 so that there was no danger of the figure of 8 levering open the gate of the krab, as has happened in several documented abseiling accidents. It has the added bonus of not rotating during belaying,and avoids cross laoding the krab. It is also a good visual check that the gate is fastened, as the plastic clip will not close unless the gate is fastened. Its a sensibly shaped, nice size HMS, big enough to use an italian hitch.

Weaknesses:
The plastic bit can fall off if it gets caught. This is easily fixed by making a small hole in it, and passing a keyring through it, and attaching it to the krab (as described on Needle Sports website). It is quite heavy (100g) compared to say, a DMM Sentinel, but average weight for an HMS. It is also quite expensive for what it is.

Overall:
Useful for beginners, or for use with a fig. 8 but there are lighter, cheaper HMS out there, which do the same job.

Performance		100%
Reliability		80%
Value		60%

Overall Rating

80%

Daniel Jones

Posted: 30/04/05

'AN EXTRA SAFTEY DEVICE'

Strengths:
Helps you make shure that all is in order while belaying.
DMN quality

Weaknesses:
I have atcually been belaying and was about to let the climber go before i realised that i was so concerned with doing up the crab that I had messed the rope and belay up. You still have to think (maybe a bit harder (take note here!)) but i have never forgot since then.
Price not worth that much for an extra bit of plastic on a crab
I have been known to take the plastic bit off and shove it in my pocket when I'm gettin a bit stressed as i cant be doing with it.

Overall:
its a good device to be honest i dont need it and I usually use it when I'm introudicing a newbie to the sport these days

Performance		80%
Reliability		60%
Value		60%

Overall Rating

67%

Mike Chan

Posted: 04/06/05

'IDEAL FOR BELAYING (TO BE REALLY OBVIOUS)'

Strengths:
Yep, its strong. Its stays the correct way up when belaying and also is failsafe - my mate spotted the plastic catch open, I'd forgotten to screw up the collar! Doh!

Weaknesses:
A bit heavy for some, and I find the plastic clamp is a bit cumbersome sometimes.

Overall:
A good confidence inspiring piece of kit. I can't see how the clamp can come off, unless you force it?

Performance		80%
Reliability		80%
Value		60%

Overall Rating

73%

Chris Larvin

Posted: 29/12/05

'EXTRA SAFETY AT A PRICE.'

Strengths:
Extra bit of safety that protects the gate effectively and stops the krab flipping while belaying.

Weaknesses:
Pretty expensive piece of plastic really!

Overall:
Well designed bit of metal and plastic that will cost you a little more for that bit of redundancy.

Performance		100%
Reliability		80%
Value		60%

Overall Rating

80%

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