Black Diamond Alpine Bod

Mike P
Reviewed: 21 January 2010

LIGHTWEIGHT & BASIC BUT HIGHLY FUNCTIONAL

Great winter harness
You can put it on without taking crampons off - or even bending down!
Easier to drop your pants and a.) have a poo, or b.) moon your colleagues
Light weight (not 'lightweight') and packs down small
The new Alpine BOD has 4 gear loops
Doesn't take ages to dry after it gets wet (my only criticism of the normal BOD)
It's £30! I say again, it's £30!

Not the most comfortable sit harness ...
... but that's not why you bought it, is it?
Need to remember that there's no belay loop!
Not for Summer use!

I got sick of faffing with my normal climbing harness; having to re-adjust it every time I took it winter climbing and then back again at the climbing wall. So, I wanted to get a dedicated winter harness but didn't want to spend a fortune (mmmm....Arcteryx....ggrrrrllll...); it had to be functional, robust, light, and practical. Just like my wife.

I had heard lots of people extol the virtues of the BOD and, I have to admit, was very ready to get the normal BOD. This is mainly because I didn't want to move outside my comfort zone and buy a harness with no belay loop. I mean, how would you ... er ... belay? And how would you tie in?

Actually, quite easily: you tie in the same way you would in any harness (rope around both belt and leg-loop connector). And belaying? Well, there's two options: places like Glenmore Lodge appear to be advocating the use of the rope loop (formed when tying in) for connecting the belay biner; or, you can just add a locking HMS to take the place of the belay loop. This gives you an extra biner, when required, and you can just add your belay device straight to the HMS as normal.

Another difference between the BD and Alpine BOD is that there is no fleece padding on the belt. This is better for comfort but, when it gets wet (which it usually does in winter), it holds the moisture round your waist and takes a while to dry.

Also, it's great for walk-in as you can put the harness belt on and then clip the leg-loop connector to one of the gear loops. When you need to use the harness, just unclip, pull it through between your legs (make sure it's the biner you have a firm grip on) and clip the leg loops into the buckles. So, this makes it even more useful that you can put the belt on when you leave the car park and keep it on all day without having to use the leg loops.

That leads me to another point: the leg loops clip together with snap buckles, which is dead quick and easy with gloves on. My only issue is that, with all of these great time-saving features, the main belt still has to be fastened using an old-fashioned double-back belt buckle, which can be a pain.

Ultimately, with this harness, less is more: it actually allows you greater flexibility of use for a great price. It packs small and weighs little. Lack of belay loop means you may have to move a little out of your comfort zone, though.

Just the job...

joan collins
Reviewed: 31 October 2002

THE PERFECT BASIC HARNESS - AND CHEAP!

Light and compact. Doesn't absorb water. Highly adjustable, fitting over a variety of clothing. Cheap.

No gear loops. The old fashioned buckles are more fiddly than modern snap closures, especially when tired or in gloves. Not comfortable for hanging in. Some people find this harness not comfortable, period, so try before buying.

A great multipurpose basic harness, the only thing this is less than ideal for is lengthy hanging, either in hanging belays or climbing extended overhangs. Lack of gear loops are not a problem if your rucksack has them, or you have a sling. Twenty years ago all harnesses were like this one made without abseil loops, and the solution now is as simple as it was then - add a crab.

Pat King
Reviewed: 17 September 2002

AN EXCELLENT ROCK CLIMBING AND MOUNTAINEERING HARNESS

Light, compact,a mere handful in your sac. Comfortable,lack of padding is no handicap. Dries quickly.
Extra large size available.

You fit your own gear loops which are bought as a kit.
No belay loop, didn't bother me though.

Excellent, I use this harness for rock climbing mainly, summer and winter.
Good all round harness.

Clive Sinclair
Reviewed: 16 September 2002

GREAT GENERAL PURPOSE HARNESS AT A GREAT PRICE

Light, can be put on while wearing crampons and skis.

None really. I don't mind not having a belay loop, others might

I use this one harness for general mountaineering, involving climbing, abseilling, safety work ,etc. It's a great good value all round harness