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Black Diamond ATC- XP

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There are 5 reader reviews
John Burley
Reviewed: 29 May 2007

SIMPLE, RELIABLE AND SURPRISINGLY VERSATILE

Worthy upgrade to the classic ATC, two friction modes are genuinely useful, simple to use
a little heavier than similar devices
Now my regular belay device. It wouldn't be if it wasn't practical, manageable, reasonably light and robust at the same time.
Score breakdown



Performance:
5.0
Reliability:
5.0
Value:
4.0

Mike Chan
Reviewed: 03 June 2005

GETS MY THUMBS UP!

No need to further expand on the technicalities, its done its job well enough for me and I belay a guy thats 2 stone heavier!
The weight...
One of the more expensive devices generally available. Its friction capability is ideal for beginners I reckon!
Score breakdown



Performance:
4.0
Reliability:
4.0
Value:
3.0

Peter Williamson
Reviewed: 07 March 2005

GOOD DEVICE

This belay device gives a choice of low friction mode, useful when abseiling on fat ropes, and high friction, which I generally use all the time for belaying. I usually belay heavier people (12+ st) and have not had a problem holding falls with it even on slick 8.5mm ropes. It is very robust and I would think less likely to wear to a sharp edge, than a Bug or similar device. The plastic badges enable you to hold it even if it has become hot.
It is very heavy, especially when compared to a Buggette. I find it slow to abseil on with fatter (11mm) ropes, even on low friction mode (although I do only weigh around 7 stone).

If belaying from above, it has a tendency to jam after locking off, which can be annoying. It is also quite expensive, a similar price to a Reverso, which is a much more versatile piece of kit.
A great device, if I were to lose it, I would buy another, but I generally use a figure of 8 for abseiling, and if I weren't so weak and feeble would definitely consider a lighter, cheaper device.
Score breakdown



Performance:
3.0
Reliability:
5.0
Value:
3.0

Ali James
Reviewed: 16 January 2005

FRICTION OR FREEDOM

Can be used two way, low friction or high friction.
Excellent for double ropes where a normal device makes too little friction.
Very good cable, feels solid and durable.
Little sticker bits on side so you dont burn your fingers when taking it off.
Gets very hot even on 15 meter indoor routes, so could get really hot on anything much longer.
Seems a bit heavy, but then thats payback for the durability.
Great belay device, can hold any fall. Works really well on double ropes and will last ages.
Score breakdown



Performance:
4.0
Reliability:
4.0
Value:
4.0

Matthew Lloyd
Reviewed: 03 January 2005

TOP NOTCH, BOMBPROOF

feels solid
well designed
kind to ropes
regular friction for slick belay
enhanced friction mode (with teeth!) for the lardy ones
dead uselful on topropes where the climber does more hanging than climbing
a tad heavy
some might not like the size
sometimes it has too much holding power (even on slick) so much so that the smaller climber may not have enough weight to come down!
great belay device (unless your partner is below about 7 stone). i generally use the slick option, unless im using a thin rope, or belaying a heavy guy. If you think that the holding power of the bug is insufficient for what you do- buy this, and belay with confidence!
Score breakdown



Performance:
4.0
Reliability:
5.0
Value:
3.0

There are 5 reader reviews

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