What's It For?
The Torres Smock is designed as a belay top that's cut oversized so you can simply throw it on over other layers either when stopped on hill, on belay or just for slumming about in your tent or even walking when things are brutally cold.
The Techy Bits
The Torres uses Nikwax Analogy Insulator, a synthetic lofting insulation fibre teamed with a Nikwax Windproof outer for a combination of warmth and weather protection. The main body is 133g weight, the hood has 100g weight insulation to reduce bulk.
The big plus of synthetic insulation like this, is that it's inherently water resistant and still retains reasonable insulation value even when wet, unlike down. That means you can pull it on over, say, a wet hardshell or Paramo waterproof without fretting. To increase water resistance, you can also treat it with TX10.
The other notable feature of the Torres is the oversized cut, designed to fit straight over other layers for minimal faff. It also has a short front and long back to work with a climbing harness.
How It Performed
Initially we were slightly put off by the 800 gramme weight of the Torres Smock, but it actually packs down into a surprisingly compact bunde and, in recent cold condtions, we found ourselves using it a lot because of the extra warmth it gives over lighter synthetic tops.
It does offer proper, instant warmth. Stop, pull the Torres out from the top of your pack, pull it over whatever you're wearing - smooth inner fabric slides on easily - feel snug and smug, then reverse the process when you start moving again. The big insulated hood is a god-send too, keeping your head warm and clear.
The cut is big and pragmatic and fitted over anything we wore including waterproofs. It is made quite short and boxy for climbing use - access to a harness and belay loop is easier with the short front - but for general use a longer cut would give slightly more protection. We're not sure about the Smock design for climbing use either. On a cramped belay ledge, a jacket might be easier to put on, though for general mountain wear, the smock is okay.
A couple of times, after prolonged stops in really cold conditions, we used the Torres on the move as well, taking it off again once we'd warmed up.
The Torres was fine with damp as well. We often layered it over wet underlayers and it performed just fine and dried out fast once we got in as well.
What else? We like big, insulated kangaroo tunnel handwarmer. It's nice to have a zipped chest pocket and internal mesh pockets were great for warming energy bars and other snacks - yes, Mars Bars - in sub-zero conditions. They take a bottle too if you need them to. Hem is easy to adjust with a single-handed shock-corded adjuster and simple Lycra-bound cuffs just are.
Verdict
We've been fans of the belay-jacket concept for ages, but we've mostly used lighter, less warm versions and really appreciated the extra insulation of the Torres in sub-zero conditions. It's is a little weighty, but packs down smaller than you'd imagine and pays for its carriage in comfort.
For general use, we'd prefer a slightly longer cut, but we can appreciate than climbers will appreciate the short front. The big, insulated hood was appreciated too.
Buy if you're looking for a warmer than average belay-type jacket that copes well with damp and is still reasonably portable.
