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Crib Goch via Jammed Boulder Gulley


by Dave Mycroft
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Short description
An alternative appraoch to Crib Goch, avoiding the crowds on the traditional east ridge. Jammed Boulder Gully (JBG) adds a grade 3 start to what would otherwise be a straightforward grade 1 route.

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Route details

Region: Snowdonia
Start at: Llanberis Pass
End at: Snowdon
Start grid ref: SH628566
End grid ref: SH609543
Difficulty: Medium
Scramble element: Scramble
Grade:
Distance: 4.3 kilometres
Total ascent: 1075 meters
Approx. time needed: 3 hrs 30 mins
   
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Long description
Crib Goch is one of the classic British scrambles, but suffers in terms of its popularity as a result. The North Ridge makes an alternative approach to the pinnacled ridge that avoids the crowds on the normal route. The rock is generally good and stable, and drains well. The North Ridge tends to dry slower after rainfall, and Jammed Boulder Gulley in particular can be wet. The other main consideration is wind, as both the North ridge and the main ridge of Crib Goch are very exposed.

Approach: For JBG Start - From Pen Y Pass or Llanberis take the A4086 to Pont y Gromlech (NGR SH629 566) 1.34 miles north west of Pen y Pass. Follow the obvious path heading straight for the cliffs of Dinas Mot over the style. In the centre of the main part of the cliffs is an obvious large slab, aim for the base of this slab then move right to cross a stile. Continue round to the first large incut in the face, where a well defined buttress protrudes. JBG is the left hand gulley that defines the buttress, and is immediately reckognised by the large block of stone jammed midway up.
For North Ridge Start - Follow the above route to near the base of the main slab on Dinas Mot, then take the scree slope up to the left to a boulder strewn ravine.Move right and ascend easy scramling ground to a shoulder on the North Ridge.

Route: Jammed Boulder Gulley Start -
Enter the gulley and climb steadily up on good holds to a large block that halts progress. Pass the block on its left hand side, then move left onto an obvious, undercut, slab. Protection is available here using slings round sveral jammed rocks in the "roof", and are advisable as the initial moves on the slab are small and not immediately obvious. The way ahead is through the large gap between the boulders above, to emerge in a large incut bay. Continue up above the bay on the right hand rib on good rock, but close to the border between scrambling and rock climbing, then out onto a final large jammed block. Climb up through the gap between jammed boulders to emerge on easier ground and an obvious east line up to the main North Ridge Route.
North Ridge: The North Ridge is a straightforward grade 1 scramble which starts as a broad grassy ridge. The route is always obvious, sticking to the ridge crest as becomes increasingly rocky. The ridge narrows to a rib as the angle increases, but the angle decreases again as it approaches its narrowest part. Stick carefully to the ridge crest as this is where the rock is most stable, and continue ahead to join the main Crib Goch ridge close to the summit. Continue ahead over grade 1 terrain to Bwlch Coch, Crib y Ddysgl and Snowdon summit.
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Discuss this route


Mike harvey 2

hello, Can this route be soloed? and how does it compare to Cnefion Arete Graded 3 scramble which I have done a few times, and i have also scrambled grib Goch in full winter conditions on my own.

regds

Mike 


Posted: 14/04/2010 at 21:48

Routes talkback: Crib Goch via Jammed Boulder Gulley

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