Scramble Route - A'Chailleach, Glencoe

Scottish scrambling in awesome surroundings in our latest route.


Posted: 21 May 2008
by Dave Mycroft

A'Chailleach, Glencoe - Scotland

Grade: 1-3 (depending onvolume of water)

A'Chailleach makes an ideal approach for those wanting a warm up for the Aonach Eagach, or a stand-alone afternoon scramble.

Equipment: Rope and slings optional.

Online Map link

Views: 4
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 2


GIBBER FACTOR* 3
*
out of five.


Overview
A'Chailleach makes an ideal approach for those wanting a warm up for the Aonach Eagach or alternatively as an entertaining, stand-alone afternoon scramble.

With Glencoe as a backdrop you're never short of views, and for those who prefer to minimise the exposure there's an escape route at just the right spot.


Glencoe viewed from the Old Road - PEK


Approach The best start is from the lay-by where the old road meets the main road, just below The Study. Walk a few yards up the old road, then head uphill towards the small building. Beyond lies the main crag, easily identified by the orange band that divides the lower and upper sections.


The Aonach Eagach ridge - Giles Thurston


Route The lower, grade 1, section has no clearly defined route, but strings together a mix of ledges, slabs and crags as you ascend the left hand side of the face.

At the top of the lower section, with the orange rhyolite band ahead, you can traverse left and descend back to the Glen. For those continuing take the right hand of three chimneys that divide the upper face on good holds.


Classic views back down into Glencoe from the AE - John Landale

The exposure is noticeable here but you soon reach a ledge with a prominent boulder. Go past the boulder to an obvious crack and climb the final rock to reach easier ground.

Ahead lies the main ridge to Sron Garbh and the Aonach Eogach


Descent The best continuation is to traverse the ridge to Sron Garbh and Am Bodach, from where you can choose a descent into Glencoe or the full Aonach Eogach traverse. You can, alternatively, descend to the glen from the top of the scramble.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.


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Scramble Route - Kirkfell Gill, Lakes
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Scramble Route - Cam Crag Ridge, Lakes
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Discuss this story

Fantastic route for a short day or as an extension to the Anoach Eagach. I've done this twice now, the first bypassing the top section as we didn't fancy without a rope. Final section is fantastic but very exposed, especially when the rock is damp as it was when we climbed in May 2010. There's a photo of this final section on our blog

http://scotland-landscapes.blogspot.com/2010/07/28-30th-may-2010-lochaber-scrambles.html

The Cicerone Guide Scrambles in Lochaber also has a good route description and the front cover photo of the book shows this final section of the route.

Posted: 25/10/2010 at 20:56

Talkback: Scramble Route - A'Chailleach, Glencoe



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