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Scramble Route - Ben Alder

A superb scramble in an isolated location, for those who really want to get away from it all.


Posted: 26 June 2006
by Dave Mycroft

North Buttress of Ben Alder, Scotland

Grade: 2/3

A superb scramble in an isolated location, for those who really want to get away from it all.

Equipment: Ropes and protection required.

Online Map link

Views: 3
Technicality: 4
Exposure: 3


GIBBER FACTOR* 3
*
out of five.


Overview
A superb route for those who really want to get away from it all. Ben Alder is superbly isolated, and as well as the route outlined below has a choice of ridge scrambles of lower grade on the North and North East spurs. Being so isolated means a long approach walk, or making use of one of the two nearby bothies. For this route the best approach is from Culra Bothy.

Ben Alder


Approach Starting from Culra Both head South East along the Allt a'Chaoil-reidhe towards Bealach Dubh. As you approach Meall an t-Slugain move right of the waterfalls and past the large slabs to the start of the buttress.

Snowclad Ben Alder

Ben Alder from Richard Kermode's Scottish Highlands album


Route On the right hand side of the blunt nose that forms the start of the buttress the rock is stained a rust colour. Start up here and aim for the grassy ledge that runs right to left. On reaching the ledge follow it left past the main buttress wall to an easier second wall. Take this directly to an obvious ramp. From the ramp take the obvious large crack to join a more vegetated continuation of the ramp. Eventually the ramp levels out as you approach the crest. Now turn right onto the slabs and climb to where the angle of the buttress increases. Take the right hand side of the crest to a final wall, where the route follows the corner up to the main plateau. Continue up on the right hand side to reach the top.

Approach to Ben Alder

Ben Alder from www.edwardboyle.com


Descent The easiest descent is down the western shoulder, but for a return to the bothy it's best to downclimb the grade 1 scramble 'Short leachas' on the eastern spur of the main North Ridge.


Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.


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