Scramble Route - Castle Ridge, Ben Nevis

Castle Ridge. Ben Nevis - West Highlands

Grade: 4 (Scottish scrambling system)

Overview: The easiest of the classic ridges of Ben Nevis, this is a great introduction to Ben Nevis without the crowds in the stunning surrounds of the north face of Britain's highest peak.

Equipment: Ropes and protection strongly advised in the top section.

Online Map link

Views: 4 Technicality: 4 - Exposure: 3

---

GIBBER FACTOR* *out of five.

---

Overview The easiest of the classic ridges of Ben Nevis, this is a great introduction to ben Nevis without the crowds.

The approach takes you to the heart of Scottish scrambling and climbing, with the towering North Face and it's classic and historical lines dominating everything around.

The 2,950ft of ascent marks this route out as a major undertaking, and though lying somewhere between Ledges and Tower Ridge in technical terms. The route can be easily divided into two distinct parts, with easy scrambling lower down giving way to a steep and exposed upper half.

Note: In winter conditions, Castle Ridge is traditionally a grade II winter route with the chimney section given grade III and the approaches are sometimes threatened by avalanche danger, so it's best left to experienced winter mountaineers.

---

Approach rom the car park near Torlundy, follow the sign-posted path to join the Allt a' Mhuillinn. Keep the stream to your left and ascend into the obvious bowl of Corrie Leis towards the Charles Inglis Clark (CIC) Hut. Castle Ridge is the first of the great ridges on the North Face as you approach via the Allt a' Mhuillin. The route starts from the gully below the large buttress called "The Castle".

---

Route - Start at the mouth of the gully on a rock slab platform above the obvious large boulder, and take on the ridge directly. The route meanders from side to side initially, avoiding steeper more difficult sections as when you want, and moving generally left as you ascend.

Route selection is easy here on a wide and easy-angled ridge crest with a multitude of available choices to suit your ability. Take advantage of this easy section to move the pace along as things change dramatically quite soon.

The ridge leads up to a point where you can look down into the gully on your left as the ridge narrows. Follow the narrowing ridge up, moving right at a large slab to arrive at the base of a steeper, more exposed section.

Start up the corner of two big blocks on small but good holds on the right, then make a couple of exposed moves onto a higher, steeper, block. Now make for the obvious wide ledge above leading to a short steep climb up a narrow chimney.

This puts you back on the ridge crest, which initially narrows before widening again as it reaches the summit plateau and hopefully rewarding views.

---

Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.