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Central Buttress, Lochnagar -
Scottish Highlands
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Grade: 4
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A big, exposed, route with escapes if
needed and all in classic souroundings on one of Scotland's
most iconic mountains.
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Equipment: Rope and protection
optional. Difficulties can usually be avoided by moving left
to easier ground..
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Online Map link
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Views: 5
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 3
*out of
five.
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Overview A big, exposed, route with escapes if needed and all in
classic suroundings on one of Scotland's most iconic mountains. It's
a long day with a four-mile walk-in, but worth every step for the
views alone.
Seasonal note In winter conditions, Central Buttress is a
grade 2 climbing route and a much more serious proposition. Attempt
it only if you have the requisite winter skills and experience.
Lochangars's stunning mountain cliffs - Kinley
Approach Central Buttress lies in the North East corrie of
Lochnagar, so the best approach is from the
Spittal
of Glenmuick.
Take the wide track north west and head straight for the woods,
turning left to climb gently through the trees. Once out of the trees
the path continues westward to a fork two and three quarter miles
from the start point.
Take the left hand branch at the fork, dropping at first before
setting your sights on the low point between Meikle Pap and
Lochnagar. At the saddle ignore the path that climbs left towards the
summit, but head down into the north east corrie. Central Buttress
lies in the middles of the corrie, where the vegetation gives way to
solid, unbroken, rock.
Route Start up the buttress on clean rock to a platform where
the heather has encroched from the left, then aim for the easy
looking chimney. Watch your step on the chimney which, though easy,
can be slippery when vegetated.
Another view of the NE Corrie - Bruce
Now you can move up right to join the crest of the ridge, which
forms the main part of the route. The ridge offers good scrambling
with constant exposure, but plentiful protection and the security of
easier ground to the left at the hardest parts.
When using the ledges to escape left, try and make the move
temporary and rejoin the ridge crest as son as possible.
Eventually the ridge narrows dramatically to an arete - where a
rope is advised - and an imposing rock tower. A chimney on the left
of the tower proves easier than expected and leads to easier ground.
Scramle easily over the final blocks to gain the summit plateau.
Black Spout, the gaping gully that climbs
to Lochanagar's summit plateau - Terry
Thomson
Descent From the top of Central Buttress the summit of
Lochnagar lies around the rim of the corrie to the right. The views
from the rim of the corrie, out over Lochnagar itself, are impressive
enough but Black Spout Gully makes the whole day worthwhile on its
own.
The return is either back along the rim to rejoin the inward path
at the saddle between Lochnagar and Meikle Pap, or follow the Glas
Allt south east to Loch Muick then north along the waterside to the
bridge over the River Muick and your start point.
Caution Scrambling is potentially
dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical
skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take
professional instruction or climb with an experienced
partner.
