Scramble Route - Cneifion Arete, Snowdonia

Cneifion Arete, Snowdonia

Grade: 3

Whether taken on its own or combined with an approach up the Idwal Slabs, Cneifion Arete makes a superb mountain day with panoramic views down the Ogwen Valley

Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes advised.

Online Map link

Views: 3 Technicality: 3 Exposure: 4

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GIBBER FACTOR* 3 *out of five.

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Overview Exposed and demanding this grade 3 arete is the benchmark for grade 3 scrambling and an absolute classic.

Whether taken on its own or combined with an approach up the Idwal Slabs, Cneifion Arete makes a superb mountain day with panoramic views down the Ogwen Valley.

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Approach One of the advantages of scrambling in North Wales is the short approaches. The walk-in to Glyder Fawr, and Llyn Idwal is best from the main car park at Idwal Cottage.

A well-marked path leads over a footbridge then bears right to follow the edge of Llyn Idwal. Half way along the lake a path heads up to the left into Cwm Cneifion from where the route is immediately obvious as a sharp, menacing, rib heading upwards towards the summit.

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Route It's difficult to decide where the arete commences, with a short wall giving interest below the scree path that leads to the arete proper.

Another view of the Arete - Simon Chaplin

The scree path ends abruptly at the foot of the arete and an instant introduction to grade 3 scrambling. Though the holds are solid and square there's little protection on the first steep climb, with just a good nut placement available after 30ft of sustained steep ground.

Gain the crest by traversing right then moving diagonally up to the left to a chimney. The short chimney is easy enough and you get temporary respite above.

The hardest moves are behind you, but the crest ahead still offers plenty of exposure. The ideal line is to follow the crest of the arete as the Ogwen Valley opens up below you to reveal Anglesey across the Menai Strait.

The crest continues to climb steeply, but with good holds and plentiful spike belays, to merge into the Gribin Ridge. Gribin Ridge continues the rocky, upward, trend beyond the shoulder, and again the ideal line is along the crest.

The ridge eventually peters out as it it reaches the plateau. From here the main path leads left for Glyder Fach or right for Glyder Fawr.

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Descent Once on the plateau, you're spoiled for choice when it comes to returning to your startpoint. For a quick return to Ogwen Cottage drop down the obvious scree path to Llyn y Cwn then follow the Devil's Kitchen path down to Llyn Idwal. Alternatively head up over Y Garn and drop back down the ridge from there.

Alternatively traverse the rocky plateau to Glyder Fach then either drop down the steep path next to Bristly Ridge or, if you fancy some more scrambling, descent the grade 1 ridge itself before returning to Idwal via Llyn Bochlwyd.

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Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.