Scramble Route - Crib Goch Alternative

Crib Goch via Jammed Boulder Gully and North Ridge (Snowdonia)

Grade: 1 and 3

Overview:An alternative appraoch to Crib Goch, avoiding the crowds on the traditional east ridge. Jammed Boulder Gully (JBG) adds a grade 3 start to what would otherwise be a straightforward grade 1 route.

Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes essential, headtorch useful in the gully depending on the weather/time.

On line map link

Views: 3* - All the classic views from the Crib Goch ridge.. Technicality: 4 - Commiting moves in JBG Exposure: 3 - The moves above the boulder in JBG, high on Dinas Mot, are very exposed. The ridge of Crib Goch is famously "airy"..

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GIBBER FACTOR* *out of five.

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Crib Goch is one of the classic British scrambles, but can get horrendously busy as a result. The North Ridge is an alternative approach to the pinnacled main ridge that neatly side-steps the crowds on the normal route and gives a quiet start from a deserted Cwm Glas before the potential business of the ridge proper. The alternative Grade 3 start up Jammed Boulder Gully is for expereinced scramblers who want to add a bit of spice to the route. The rock is generally good and stable, and drains well.

The North Ridge tends to dry slower after rainfall, and Jammed Boulder Gulley in particular can be wet. The other main consideration is wind, as both the North ridge and the main ridge of Crib Goch are very exposed.

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Approach: For JBG Start - From Pen Y Pass or Llanberis take the A4086 to Pont y Gromlech (SH629 566) 1.34 miles north west of Pen y Pass. Follow the obvious path heading straight for the cliffs of Dinas Mot over the stile.

In the centre of the main part of the cliffs is an obvious large slab, aim for the base of this slab then move right to cross a stile. Continue round to the first large incut in the face, where a well defined buttress protrudes. JBG is the left hand gully that defines the buttress, and is immediately recognised by the large block of stone jammed midway up.

For North Ridge Start - Follow the above route to near the base of the main slab on Dinas Mot, then take the scree slope up to the left to a boulder strewn ravine.Move right and ascend easy scramling ground to a shoulder on the North Ridge.

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Route -

Jammed Boulder Gully - Enter the gully and climb steadily up on good holds to a large block that halts progress. Pass the block on its left hand side, then move left onto an obvious, undercut, slab. Protection is available here using slings round sveral jammed rocks in the "roof", and are advisable as the initial moves on the slab are small and not immediately obvious.

The way ahead is through the large gap between the boulders above, to emerge in a large incut bay. Continue up above the bay on the right hand rib on good rock, but close to the border between scrambling and rock climbing, then out onto a final large jammed block. Climb up through the gap between jammed boulders to emerge on easier ground and an obvious east line up to the main North Ridge Route.

North Ridge - The North Ridge is a straightforward grade 1 scramble which starts as a broad grassy ridge and eventually spits you out on the main Crib Goch ridge. The route is always obvious, sticking to the ridge crest as becomes increasingly rocky. The ridge narrows to a rib as the angle increases, but the angle decreases again as it approaches its narrowest part.

Stick carefully to the ridge crest as this is where the rock is most stable, and continue ahead to join the main Crib Goch ridge close to the summit. Continue ahead over grade 1 terrain to Bwlch Coch, Crib y Ddysgl and Snowdon summit from where there is a choice of descent routes.

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Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.