Curved Ridge on Buchaille Etive Mor is one of the great mountain scrambles with phenomenal exposure and crazy views down to Rannoch Moor, 2000 feet below.
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Curved Ridge on Stob
Dearg, Buchaille Etive Mor (Highlands)
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Grade: 3
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Overview: Classic scramble on
Buchaille Etive Mor. Mostly non-technical despite the grade,
but big, exposed and in a fantastic situation high above
Rannoch Moor. Unmissable :-)
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Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes
recommended for steep section, and with novices
throughout.
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On line
map link
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Views: 3* -This is possibly Scotland's
most photographed mountain, and that's just from below! By
the time you finish the walk in and approach the start the
vierws over rannoch Moor are stunning, and they get better
and better the higher you go. Add in the famous Rannoch Wall
and you'll see why a camera is mandatory on this
route...
Technicality: 3 - one steep section.
Exposure: 3 - 3 (4 with Crowberry Tower
finish)
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GIBBER FACTOR*
*out of
five.
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If you're looking for the next step after the Aonach Eagach, this
is the place to go. Buachaille Etive Mor is one of the most
recognised sights in British mountaineering, and this route takes you
up the sharp end. Although a grade 3, much of the route is
straightforward , and with the exception of a single steep section,
not technically difficult.
But what it lacks in technicality it more than makes up for in
situation and exposure - particularly if you add the Crowberry Tower
finish. The sight of Rannoch Moor stretched out 2000ft below is
enough enticement to take on this classic scramble, but remember it
is a big route and in winter or bad weather is not a nice place to
be!
Curved Ridge marks the point where scrambling becomes
mountaineering. A long (two-hour) approach is worth the effort to
claim one of Scotland's true classics. For a bigger version of this
shot of Stob Dearg just click.
Approach: Park at Altnfeadh (NN
221 563) and take the path towards Lagangarbh Cottage to a Y
junction. Take the left hand branch which skirts the base of Stob
Dearg, crossing a boulder slope and passing the Great Gulley to reach
the obvious Water Slab. the route now turns sharp right, continuing
steeply uphill left of the Water Slab and over the scree slope to the
start. As you approach the solid rock from the top of the scree slope
keep left as you move up to find the easier ground.
Route: The route starts from a large obvious rectangular block to
the left of the main path, just before it reaches the ridge itself.
From the block move right then up onto the ridge and across the
stream as it descends a slimy gulley.
Now you meet the crest of the ridge, and your way up. Follow the
crest of the arete via a series of blocks and ledges on good solid
rock, or if you prefer a little less exposure keep left and follow a
defined line of zig zags. The exposure of the arete only lasts for
about 50 yards before the angle eases and the ground levels to a
platform.
Now halfway up Stob Dearg, it becomes a case of walking up a rock
staircase, zig zagging right and left to find the ground that suits
you most, and aiming for the pyramid peak above. As you approach
steeper ground on the crest you reach a gulley, which provides an
alternative and easier ascent. Either way, you emerge at a rock
strewn paltform with more views over the expanse of Rannoch Moor.
Turn right here onto steeper ground, and climb a series of large
steep blocks on good holds. Aim right of the pinnacle high on the
wall above, then traverse over and round the back of the pinnacle to
another platform. This platform gives access to possibly the hardest
part of the route, where you follow a crack up the corner on outward
sloping footholds initially, though these soon change to wide ledges.
From the top of the crack move slightly left onto the crest of the
arete and easier ground, as Crowberry Tower emerges on the right
above you. A cairn marks the end of Curved Ridge, and a choice of
ways to the summit. The easiest route follows the right hand side of
the obvious gulley ahead to the gap between Crowberry Tower and Stob
Dearg. From here a short gulley and easy scramble takes you to the
summit.
Crowberry Tower is a superb detour to the main Curved Ridge
route. Approach as for the main route to the summit, then follow the
path that spirals round the tower to emerge at a small platform with
vertical drops on all sides. From the top of the tower reverse your
route to the gap between the tower and the main mountain face, and
rejoin the main route to the summit..
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
