Scramble Route - Dolmen Ridge
This week's scramble route is one of the best on Snowdonia's spiky Glyder Fach. Lots of exposure, so don't look down too hard...
|
Dolmen Ridge, Flyder
Fach (Snowdonia)
|
|
Grade: 3
|
|
Overview: One of the best scrambles on
Glyder Fach, rising from the shore of Llyn Bochlwyd to
within a few metres of the summit. Loads of exposure, so
don't look down.
|
|
Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes
essential!
|
|
On line
map link
|
|
Views: 3 - The usual western aspect of
Tryfan on the approach and from the Glyder Fach Summit. Good
views of Cwm Bochlwyd and Llyn Ogwen once clear of Central
Gully.
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 3
|
|
GIBBER FACTOR*
*out of
five.
|

|

|

|
|
You can't beat a good ridge for exposure, atmosphere and
functionality - think staircase - and the Dolmen Ridge is one of the
best scrambles on Glyder Fach with towering views out over the Ogwen
Valley. As a bonus, the route finishes within a few metres of the
mountain's summit.
Approach: From Ogwen
Cottage take the path behind the toilet block and turn left.
Cross the stile onto the lower slopes of the Glyders and follow the
paved track towards Llyn Idwal. As the Llyn Idwal track turns right
fork left over rough, and usually wet, ground to the obvious stream
coming down from Llyn Bochlwyd.
Follow the right bank of the stream up to the lake. The objective
is the towering main cliff on the far side of Llyn
Bochlwyd - above with Tryfan in the background. Circle
llyn Bochlwyd in either direction to reach the obvious large gully -
Central Gully that divides the main cliff for almost its full
height.
Route: Start right of the gully with a difficult first move then
go diagonally across from right to left up easy blocks and ledges.
At
around half height of the gully reach a scree covered platform, with
the start of Dolmen Buttress directly across the gully. As the gully
starts to narrow traverse across to the left side, taking care on the
scree and boulder slopes of the gully.
On the left side of the gully an obvious slanting slab takes you
from right to left, leading to
the edge of Dolmen Buttress. Take a short groove to an obvious
spike on the very edge of the buttress and a very exposed step up and
around the arete.
Now move diagonally left on a continuous series of large blocks
and ledges to reach the main crest of the ridge. Follow the crest up,
with fine views of Tryfan (left) and back over Llyn Bochlwyd to Llyn
Ogwen far below.
The final section of the route now curves gently right before
dropping slightly to a small col, then joining the final obvious
route up the last few metres to the summit. From here descent is
possible in either direction, with Bristly Ridge (Grade 1) off to the
left over the summit plateau or The Gribin (Grade 1) directly to the
right.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
Discuss this story
|