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Scramble Route - Dolmen Ridge

This week's scramble route is one of the best on Snowdonia's spiky Glyder Fach. Lots of exposure, so don't look down too hard...


Posted: 31 October 2005
by Dave Mycroft

Dolmen Ridge, Flyder Fach (Snowdonia)

Grade: 3

Overview: One of the best scrambles on Glyder Fach, rising from the shore of Llyn Bochlwyd to within a few metres of the summit. Loads of exposure, so don't look down.

Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes essential!

On line map link

Views: 3 - The usual western aspect of Tryfan on the approach and from the Glyder Fach Summit. Good views of Cwm Bochlwyd and Llyn Ogwen once clear of Central Gully.
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 3


GIBBER FACTOR*
*
out of five.


You can't beat a good ridge for exposure, atmosphere and functionality - think staircase - and the Dolmen Ridge is one of the best scrambles on Glyder Fach with towering views out over the Ogwen Valley. As a bonus, the route finishes within a few metres of the mountain's summit.
Approach: From Ogwen Cottage take the path behind the toilet block and turn left. Cross the stile onto the lower slopes of the Glyders and follow the paved track towards Llyn Idwal. As the Llyn Idwal track turns right fork left over rough, and usually wet, ground to the obvious stream coming down from Llyn Bochlwyd.

Follow the right bank of the stream up to the lake. The objective is the towering main cliff on the far side of Llyn Bochlwyd - above with Tryfan in the background. Circle llyn Bochlwyd in either direction to reach the obvious large gully - Central Gully that divides the main cliff for almost its full height.


Route: Start right of the gully with a difficult first move then go diagonally across from right to left up easy blocks and ledges.

At around half height of the gully reach a scree covered platform, with the start of Dolmen Buttress directly across the gully. As the gully starts to narrow traverse across to the left side, taking care on the scree and boulder slopes of the gully.

On the left side of the gully an obvious slanting slab takes you from right to left, leading to

the edge of Dolmen Buttress. Take a short groove to an obvious spike on the very edge of the buttress and a very exposed step up and around the arete.

Now move diagonally left on a continuous series of large blocks and ledges to reach the main crest of the ridge. Follow the crest up, with fine views of Tryfan (left) and back over Llyn Bochlwyd to Llyn Ogwen far below.

The final section of the route now curves gently right before dropping slightly to a small col, then joining the final obvious route up the last few metres to the summit. From here descent is possible in either direction, with Bristly Ridge (Grade 1) off to the left over the summit plateau or The Gribin (Grade 1) directly to the right.


Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.


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