An ideal harder alternative to the classic Bristly Ridge route.
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East Gully Ridge, Glyder
Fach
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Grade: 3
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An intriguiging and unlikely looking
route up the the main cliffs of Glyder Fach, makes a good
alternative to the easier Bristly Ridge.
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Equipment: Rope and protection
strongly advised.
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Online Map link
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Views: 3
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 3
*out of
five.
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Overview An intriguiging and unlikely looking route up the the
main cliffs of Glyder Fach. Exposed in places, but with ample natural
protecton this makes a good alternative to the easier Bristly
Ridge.
Glyder Fach from Tryfan, Bristly Ridge centre of pic -
PEK
Approach From Ogwen Cottage take the path behind the toilet
block and turn left. Cross the stile onto the lower slopes of the
Glyders and follow the paved track towards Llyn Idwal.
As the Llyn Idwal track turns right fork left over rough, and
usually wet, ground to the obvious stream coming down from Llyn
Bochlwyd. Follow the right bank of the stream up to the lake.
The objective is the large and obvious Alphabet Slab on the
towering main cliff on the far side of Llyn Bochlwyd.
Route A scree-filled gully on the left of Alphabet Slab gives
access to a ledge above the slab, where a path crosses a rib to the
right then drops to a ledge at the start of East Gully Ridge.
Start right, taking the gully edge to a notch and narrower rib.
Some 100ft of solid scrambling leads up the ridge to where it levels
out temporarily.
The next 30ft consists of scrambling over blocks and slabs to an
obvious notch in the piled blocks. The wide crack above culminates in
a mantleshelf to a spike.
Use the spike for a belay as you move up and left to a narrow
ledge. Main and East Gullys now merge giving an easy scramble up the
right hand side. Keep left as the edge narrows and curves left and
join the last easy section of the main Chasm Face.
Up top - Castell y Gwnt - Nikolas
S.Andersen
Descent As with all routes onto the Glyders there are multiple
options for Descent. For a scrambling descent you can choose from the
Gribin or Bristly Ridge.
Looking back at Glyder Fach from Y Gribin - Marcus
Crompton
For a longer day on the hill, the best option is to continue over
to Glyder Fawr and descend via the Devil's KItchen or even Y Garn if
you're feeling spritely.
Caution Scrambling is potentially
dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical
skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take
professional instruction or climb with an experienced
partner.
