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Scramble Route - Easy Terrace, Dow Crag

Lashings of exposure on this Lakeland crag climbers' descent route :-)


Posted: 10 April 2007
by Dave Mycroft

Easy Terrace, Dow Crag - Lake District

Grade: 4 (was 3S in old grading)

A classic climbers' descent/high grade scramble, that traverses the biggest buttress on one of the Lakes' best known climbers' crags.

Equipment: Helmet crucial, rope, slings not necessary.

Online Map link

Views: 4
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 4


GIBBER FACTOR* 4
*
out of five.


Overview
A classic climbers' descent/high grade scramble, that traverses the biggest buttresss on one of the Lakes' best known climbers' crags.

Although used as a descent route for climbers, Easy Terrace is no easy scramble. Particular care should be taken to wear a helmet and to be careful not to knock stones down on people below.

The whole route, and the higher section in particular, are no place for anyone who doesn't like exposure, but the rock is sound and navigation simple.


Approach There are two traditional approaches to the base of Dow Crag's famous buttresses, from Goats Hause or Goats Water.

From Goats Hause a traverse runs across the base of the buttresses in turn to arrive at the foot of B Buttress - you can just see the blue mountain rescue box in the picture above - while from Goats Water a zig zag route leads directly to the same spot.


Route The blue Mountain Rescue box at its foot marks B Buttress, and from here move left along the continuation of the Goats Hause traverse to a gully.

From here a ramp leads diagonally up to the right with good holds well marked by countless footsteps. After a slight steepening the ramp emerges onto a terrace above the lower half of Dow Crag.

Looking up at Dow Crag from Goats Water
Marcus Crompton from his
OM Album

Move left here, avoiding the enticing righthand continuation that leads to Intermediate Gully. A series of ledges and fine steps moves diagonally left up the face, with a short steep section as you approach the left-hand side of the buttress and the side of Great Gully.


South Rake, an easier alternative - Marcus again
OM Album

The route now twists right to join and follow the edge of the buttress to the summit ridge. On a good day the views from here are spectacular, benefitting from an unobstructed view to the west and of the Coniston Fells to the south east.


Descent A short walk brings you to the top Of Dow Crag, with descents via Goats Water to Coniston and Goats Hause for an ascent of Coniston Old Man and a subsequent descent..
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.


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Discuss this story

the rock is sound

I remembered that sadly a young man from my neck of the woods died on Easy Terrace just under a year ago as the rock proved to be loose and the boulder he was using as a hold broke free. He was an outdoor instructor and very experienced.

http://www.yorkshire-evening-post.co.uk/ViewArticle.aspx?SectionID=39&ArticleID=1457424
http://www.whitehaven-news.co.uk/news/viewarticle.asp?id=358550

Please take care on this route.

Posted: 11/04/2007 at 09:07


If that is the same route as we used as a climbers descent path, then it is also very polished on the rock bits.

Posted: 11/04/2007 at 14:58

Hate to be all H&S, but I had a go at this today and, I'm not an experienced scrambler and I may have gone up the wrong route, but I found it so demanding and treacherous I had to back out of it, even though I thought that was dangerous in itself. A slip and I would've been a goner, so please don't attempt this ascent unless you know what you're doing!

Posted: 16/11/2010 at 19:29

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