|
Grade: 3
|
|
Two routes on the nose of Gearr Aonach
in a superb setting overlooking Glencoe and not overly
technical despite the grade.
|
|
Equipment: Protection and ropes
advised.
|
|
Online Map link
|
|
Views: 4
Technicality: 2
Exposure: 3
|
|
GIBBER FACTOR* 2
*out of
five.
|
|
|
|
|
Overview Two routes on the nose of Gearr Aonach in a superb
setting overlooking Glencoe.
The grade 3 route takes a direct line up the left side of the
nose, with a return route down a zig-zagging grade 1. Not overly
technical, despite the grade, and well worth a day out just for the
views.
Alternatively you can continue onto Stob Coire nan Lochan and some
stunning mountain walking with great views.
Approach From the road, the nose of Gearr Aonach, the middle
of the Three Sisters, doesn't look like promising scrambling
territory and the north east face is a well known climbing
ground.
The easiest approach is to take the well marked path from the road
at NN
174 567 towards Coire Gabhail - the "Lost Valley".
Cross the river near the Meeting of the Three Waters and head up
the hill to a stile, The main path heads left into Corrie Gabhail
here,but the scrambles lie higher up to the right.
A path leads up the slope to the right to a flatter area then up
left to where the rock dramatically changes colour .
Route The first leg of the route is the first leg of the much
easier zig-zagging grade 1 route used on the return and heads off
diagonally right below an overhanging rock wall as far as a large
slab.
Continue round the corner for 30ft to a small vegetation covered
ledge followed by good direct scrambling on very sound rock.
A large block seems to stop progress, but a crack on the left
gives a way on. Step across to the right then gain the left edge and
continue up a series of steps and ledges on steep but solid ground.
As the angle of ascent suddenly eases the grade 1 route joins from
the left, and this is a good time to take a look around if you're
heading for the summit of Gearr Aonach or Stob Coire nan Lochan
before descending.
From the top of the scramble the ridge continues up a crest to
join Stob Coire nan Lochan, with options right or left for an
alternative descent.
Our route, however returns by a zig-zag route down the nose. From
the spot identified earlier on the ascent break out to the right down
a short series of steps and continue down diagonally right.
Turn a corner where the line switches back to diagonally down and
left and continue on easy scrambling ground to the point where you
rejoin your ascent route at the slab and corner.
Now retrace your steps from the first section of the ascent to
rejoin the path from Coire Gabhail back to the road.
Caution Scrambling is
potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades,
requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We
suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an
experienced partner.
