Right on the cusp of scrambling and climbing with grippy rock and a great location.
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The Grey Band, Pike of Stickle -
Lake District
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Grade: 3/4 (sections of VDiff
climbing)
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Though it strays into the lowest
grades of rock climbing this route benefits from both sound,
grippy, rock and a superb location on one of the Lake
District's most recognisable peaks.
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Equipment: Protection and ropes
essential.
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Online Map link
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Views: 3
Technicality: 4
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 4
*out of
five.
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Overview A step up in grade to the borderline between scrambling
and climbing, and perhaps a step over the borderline.
Though it strays into the lowest grades of rock climbing this
route benefits from both sound, grippy, rock and a superb location on
one of the Lake District's most recognisable peaks.
Approach Starting from the Old Dungeon Ghyll take the well
worn path below Gimmer Crag, zig zagging as it climbs Troughton Gill.
Beyond the ghyll a terrace above the lower crags leads right to a
faint path dropping down then across the scree.
A terrace leads to a grassy gully, but climb the steep vegetated
slope before this gully to the base of a steep outcrop below an
obvious dark looking crack.
Route A damp, vegetated groove leads diagonally left to a
large grassy terrace then move left and upwards to the base of a good
rock slab.
Now move diagonally left, staying right of the gully to a sound
belay on a spike in the middle of the face. A series of steps and
ledges now leads round to the right to the base of a large chimney.
Belay at the base of the chimney, which is actually a gap behind a
large block, and go round the block to the right. Climb the flake at
the far side to a ledge then move left to a larger ledge below the
Grey Band.
A crack on the right provides protection which is needed as you
start the crux. Ten yards along the ledge there's a break in the face
and a run of vegetated ledges leads left to a rib.
Cross the rib and continue left to the corner which is taken
direct to a spike and a good belay point up to the right.
Move right now on much easier ground, passing some slabs to take
the obvious line up and left to another large block. Climb up and
left here to a good szed terrace and the final scramble up to the
summit of Pike Of Stickle.
Descent As with any route on the Langdale Pikes - below - there's
so many options you're spoilt for choice. Angle Tarn, Mickleden, or
the remaining Langdale Pikes all provide good options for a descent
and return back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll.
Caution Scrambling is
potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades,
requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We
suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an
experienced partner.
