A relatively straightforward scramble gets you away from the crowds and into the middle of some of Britain's most stunning mountain scenery in this classic Ben Nevis route.
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Grade: 1
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The easiest scrambling route on Ben
Nevis, this is a great introduction to Britain's highest
mountain without the crowds of the tourist
route.
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Equipment: Ropes and protection
are not normally needed on this route, but beware of snow in
the bottom part of Number 5 Gully at almost any time of
year.
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Online Map link
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Views: 4
Technicality: 2
Exposure: 2
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GIBBER FACTOR* 2
*out of
five.
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Overview The easiest scrambling route on Ben Nevis, this is a
great introduction to Britain's highest mountain without the crowds.
The approach takes you to the heart of Scottish scrambling and
climbing, with the towering North Face and it's classic and
historical lines dominating everything around.
Ledges Route puts you right on top of Carn Dearg Buttress then
gives a superb ridge onto the summit plateau. There are two distinct
starts to the route, depending on the amount of snow.
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Ben Nevis and the Aonachs
from the OM Gallery by Steve Morley - album
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Approach From the car park near
Torlundy
follow the sign-posted path to join the Allt a' Mhuillinn. Keep the
stream to your left and ascend into the obvious bowl of Corrie Leis
towards the Charles Inglis Clark (CIC) Hut. Number 5 gully is to the
west of the hut, immediately left of Carn Dearg Buttress.
Route Start at the bottom of
Number 5 Gully, providing
it's snow free, and follow the gully up to a large ramp coming from
the right wall. Take the ramp over easy ground, and once over a short
step, move over an exposed section with steep drops on your right.
Soon you can see a grassy depression on the left, take this as far
as it goes then turn right on a large shelf to superb views as you
reach Carn Dearg Buttress.
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Ben panorama by John
Cameron from his Lochaber album
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* Alternative start: When there's snow in Number 5 Gully you
should be able to see it easily from the CIC hut. In this case cross
the slabs by the water supply for the hut then move right to cross a
small stream coming down from Coire na Ciste.
Go up the right hand side of the stream to a boulder-filled
hollow. Now move right up scree to join a path that takes you to the
top of the first section of Moonlight Buttress.
From this large grassy viewpoint turn left and move up to the rock
face and a narrow, exposed, ledge heading right. Cross Number 5 Gully
and make your way diagonally upwards to a large sloped terrace.
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A relatively
straightforward scramble though some of the most dramatic
mountain rockscapes in Britain.
Pic by John Cameron from his Lochaber
album
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This leads to where the first start route comes in, just as you reach
the crest above Carn Dearg Buttress. Follow the crest, which trends
left, to a short wall which can be taken direct or avoided by moving
right over loose rock. Once over this rejoin the ridge to continue a
straightforward ascent to the summit plateau.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
