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Scramble Route - Llechog, Snowdonia

A technical alternative to the honey-pot routes on Snowdon.


Posted: 24 September 2007
by Dave Mycroft

Llechog, Snowdonia

Grade: 2/3

A technical and delicate route up the little frequented Llechog Buttress. Ideal as a good weather alternative to the honey-pot routes and an escape from the crowds.

Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts optional.

Online Map link

Views: 3
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 2


GIBBER FACTOR* 2
*
out of five.


Overview
A technical and delicate route up the little frequented Llechog Buttress. Ideal as a good weather alternative to the honey-pot routes and an escape from the crowds.



Snowdon Horseshoe by Andrew Terrill


Approach From the car park at Nant Peris walk up the Pass for just over half a mile then cross the river and walk along the opposite bank to the buildings at SH613 575. A rib leads directly up at an easy angle to the right, culminating in a large block at the foot of the buttress.
Route Start off by taking a dark, well vegetated groove on the left of the large block to a chockstone which is best passed on the left, then continue up the groove to exit onto grass. A series of trenches lead up to where you can identify a ten foot block precariously perched on a large ledge to your right.

From the ledge a well worn groove heads up diagonally left to a chockstone, and a pull up to a wall blocking immediate upwards progress. Move right here over a jumble of blocks to gain a solid platform below an imposing wall.

On the route

Move right on the platform to a polished groove and take the right hand rib of the groove for a few feet before moving right again into another groove.

The groove eventually peters out and an exposed, inclined, ledge heads left. Continue up on easier ground to another platform, easily identified by a collection of assorted sized pinnacles.

Behind the pinnacles head diagonally left to a grassy ledge and a short chimney. Now move right and continue up to join the main path up from Llanberis.


Descent From here the obvious choice is to follow the Llanberis path to the summit of Snowdon, or break off left where the path bends right to take in Crib y Ddysgl.

Snowdon Summit by Hamish Fenton

For a descent back to the car park Cwm Glas Ridge gives an option of avoiding the crowds. Although it is a grade one scramble, it is easier in descent as the difficulties can always be bypassed (usually to the left).


Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.


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Discuss this story

Wish I'd read this before we headed out!

Nice post with good pictures. I've linked to it from my blog http://blogs.liverpoolecho.co.uk/aintnomountainhighenough/

Best wishes,

Rich


Posted: 01/12/2009 at 19:53

It's not a bad route is it? Did you find (and climb) the 10m boot width crack mentioned in the Ashton scramble guide?

Though the linked route at the top is Llechog Buttress, a 2/3 to the left of Llechog Ridge/West Rib.


Posted: 03/12/2009 at 09:28

Yep, the Cicerone guide is pretty straightforward and opens up a great route.

Looking at your post, the buttress requires the whole rope and gear? Or are they optional?


Posted: 03/12/2009 at 18:33

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