Tough, exposed scrambling on the most direct route to a popular summit.
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Main Gully Ridge, Glyder Fach -
Snowdonia
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Grade: 3
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This is about as direct a route up
Glyder Fach as there is for scramblers. Taking a line
straight up the Main Cliff you get your fill of exposure,
but the rock is superb and there's plenty of
protection.
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Equipment: ropes and protection
advised
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Online Map link
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Views: 3
Technicality: 3
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 3
*out of
five.
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Overview This is about as direct a route up Glyder Fach as there
is for scramblers. Taking a line straight up the Main Cliff you get
your fill of exposure, but the rock is superb and there's plenty of
protection.
Glyder Fach in a monochrome mood - Dave
Ball
Apart from a few climbers on the upper part you're unlikely to
come across another person, even in summer, till you emerge between
The Cantilever and the summit.
Approach If you're early, or lucky enough, the best place to
park is the laybys east of Ogwen Cottage on the A5 below Tryfan. If
not then start from Ogwen Cottage car park. F
rom the car park take the path behind the toilet and cross the
footbridge onto open ground. As the path curves to the right and Llyn
Idwal head left towards Tryfan to join the stream.
This is where those using the laybys will join you as you follow
the stream upstream to Llyn Bochlwyd. Where the stream leaves the
lake leave the path up to Bwlch Tryfan and follow a path around the
edge of the lake then head uphill to the base of the main cliffs and
the large Alphabet Slab.
Route Start up Main Gully for about 20 feet then traverse
right past three big spikes to gain a large block on the ridge crest.
Pull up onto a higher block and climb up to a grassy corner.
Move right onto the rib and continue up to a ledge with another
corner. Move right, away from the corner, and follow the crest to
where it levels out below the steep main ridge.
The Cantilever awaits - Glyn
Jones
Move right for 30 ft to join East Gulley Ridge. from the piled
boulders move up to a 6ft wide crack and climb this to a good spike
at the top. Now move right 10ft to a ledge then straighten up and
climb the slab.
A difficult crack on the left brings you to a ledge followed by a
second, narrower ledge, and a corner. A short scramble now brings you
to where Main and East Gully ridges meet, and easier ground.
Take the right hand side initially and follow it round to the left
to reach the junction with The Chasm Face. Now follow the broad
crest, taking on outcrops where yyou feel like, to suddenly emerge on
the summit plateau.
Descent The descent is a matter of choice, with Bristly Ridge
a good option if it's not crowded with people heading in the opposite
direction, or drop down to Bwlch Tryfan on the steep, loose path to
the right of Bristly. Alternatively cross the plateu up to Glyder
Fawr and descend the Devils Kitchen path to Llyn Idwal.
Looking back towards Tryfan from the top of
Bristly Ridge
Caution Scrambling is
potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades,
requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We
suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an
experienced partner.
