Scramble Route - Nor Nor Buttress, Tryfan

Nor Nor Buttress, Tryfan - Snowdonia

Grade: 3

A superb, if difficult, route up Tryfan's imposing East Face. A good line on mixed quality rock leads eventually onto the classic North Ridge of the mountain.

Equipment: Ropes and protection required.

Online Map link

Views: 3 Technicality: 4 Exposure: 3

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GIBBER FACTOR* 3 *out of five.

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Overview A superb, if difficult, route up Tryfan's imposing East Face. A good line on mixed quality rock follows a series of ridges and a brief diversion into the gully before emerging on the classic grade one North Ridge scramble where the going gets considerably easier.

The Esat Face of Tryfan from Sean Cooper's OM gallery album

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Approach The approach, like most routes on Tryfan, is short and relatively simple. Park on the A5 near Gwern Gof Uchaf farm and campsite and take the stile and obvious path leading to Tryfan bach.

Move right to climb to the fence at the entrance to Cwm Tryfan, then right again up the scree covered gully. From the top of the gully move onto the obvious path of Heather Terrace. Continue past the first gully, Bastow Gully, to the second obvious gully - Nor Nor Gully - below.

Looking up Nor Nor gully from Tony Didock's Mostly Snowdonia album

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Route The first 45 foot covers the worst ground of the route, moving diagonally right from the entrance of Nor Nor Gully over first heather covered rocks then unstable blocks to reach a ledge. From here take the right hand of the two cracks on the left. Take on the obvious flake on its right before stepping up into the crack, which should be followed up to a series of ledges and blocks.

At the perched blocks move left to go behind them and up the step on the right. Now follow easier ground upwards to the base of the next steep section. Climb this on its right hand side, moving back over onto the ridge as soon as you can and continue left into Nor Nor Gully itself.

Start up scree on the right hand side of the gully then follow the obvious line of ribs and blocks to a large slab. Take on the slab then move right to return to Nor Nor Buttress. A short rib brings you out at the "alternative" route around the North Ridge.

Slightly right another rib can be followed to a series of blocks. Climb up through these to the top of Nor Nor Gully and a continuation along the Tryfan North Ridge route.

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Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.