Our latest scrambling route is a neat alternative to the classic grind up Pen yr Ole Wen above Ogwen Cottage complete with stunning views and a satisfying summit finish.
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Braich ty du Face, Pen
yr Ole Wen - Snowdonia
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Grade: 2
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Overview: A superb alternative to the
monotonous and leg sapping zig zag up the south spur of Pen
yr Ole Wen
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Equipment: Ropes and protection is
advisable in places.
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On line map
link
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Views: 3
Technicality: 2 -
Exposure: 2-3
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GIBBER FACTOR*
*out of
five.
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Overview A superb alternative to the monotonous and leg-sapping
zig zag up the south spur of Pen yr Ole Wen or the often crowded Glan
Dena/east ridge ascent of possbly the most maligned of the Welsh
3000ers.
The route is effectively split into two parts, a lower and upper
section, with some occasionally tricky route finding in between to
avoid the large section of vegetation halfway up.
Approach From the car park at
SH
649 604 - Ogwen Cottage - approach as if going up the South
Spur, using the stile where the main road crosses the Afon Ogwen. Turn
left once over the stile and follow the obvious track heading up
towards the zig zags. After 25 yards move left skirting the base of
the buttresses on your right, to emerge at a serrated ridge.
Route - Start up the grassy slope and onto a series of ledges
which lead easily onto
Pinnacle Ridge. Stay as close to the
crest of the ridge as possible and continue easily upwards to a
ten-foot wall, where you can take a series of large block holds to a
final ledge before The Pinnacles.
These can be taken along the crest or slightly to the right hand
side, and lead to grassy depression. Move up and left from here to an
obvious couloir that breaches the buttress ahead to gain the large
vegetated slopes that split Pen yr Ole Wen in two. Ascend this slope
trending left to aim for the obvious ridge. The ridge is punctuated
by spikes in the early section but these soon give way to a continous
line of solid, and more difficult, ground.
Continue along the ridge to a gully, which you cross to gain a
second ridge. Gain the second ridge using a vegetated corner and move
carefully up to the ridge crest. This is the most difficult section
of the route, and while the classic line is to stay on the crest this
is often made difficult by a series of featureless slabs.
An easier way almost always involves keeping left of the crest.
The ridge now turns into a classic knife edge for its final yards
before rejoining the final part of the South Spur route to the nearby
summit.
From here you can embark on any number of Carneddau wanders.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.Braich ty du Face,
Snowdonia
