Not one but two Snowdonian scrambles to take you from the base of the Idwal Slabs to near the summit of 999-metre Glyder Fawr for an exhilarating day's scrambling.
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Seniors' Ridge Complete, Glyder
Fawr, Snowdonia
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Grade: 2/1
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A combination of two scramble routes
taking you from the base of the Idwal slabs to a top-out
close to the summit of Glyder Fawr with some excellent
possibilities for the rest of the day.
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Equipment: Ropes and protection
required.
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Online Map link
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Views: 2
Technicality: 2
Exposure: 3
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GIBBER FACTOR* 2
*out of
five.
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Overview This is actually a combination of two routes, as the
traditional Seniors' Ridge grade 1 scramble commences high up Glyder
Fawr in Cwm Cneifion.
By combining this with the Direct Approach to Seniors' Ridge you
get an almost continuous scramble taking you from the famous Idwal
Slabs to close to the summit - making a much more complete mountain
day and a fine approach to the Glyder summits.
Although only grade 2, the bottom half of this route has become
exceedingly polished in places due to its use as a common descent
route by climbers on the Idwal Slabs classics, so extra care should
be taken.
Approach Start from the Ogwen Cottage car park and take the
path up to Cwm Idwal. Follow the path alongside the lake to the
obvious large slabs on the left hand side at SH644 589.
Route The route commences on a large, 65ft high slab to the
left of the main Idwal Slabs, recognisable by its recessed nature and
the obvious divide from the main slabs by a retaining wall on the
right.
The Idwal Slabs by Stuart Thomas
from Stuey's
Photos
Start up the crack left of centre, moving left up the polished
slab to reach a narrow gully between the white quartz slabs and the
grassy left bank. The route now closes towards the retaining wall of
the main Idwal Slabs East Wall, climbing to an awkward chimney before
easing again.
Follow a shallow crack to reach respite in a rocky couloir via a
short section of walking and continue directly up the couloir. After
65ft move right onto sound but polished rock with plenty of
footholds.
This area feels more exposed than lower down but soon leads to a
more secure feeling groove. A second groove follows, again highly
polished, before emerging at a cairn on a large platform.
This is the end of the difficult part of the scramble, and the
start of Seniors' Ridge itself, with the scrambling now dropping from
Grade 2 to Grade 1.
Alternatively you can reach this point by taking a path
from half way along the left side of Llyn Idwal that moves diagonally
right up the hillside to the start of Cwm Cneifion - the Nameless Cwm. Moving right from
here brings you to the cairn and the start of Seniors' Ridge.
A series of grassy terraces and short walls take you onto the
crest of Seniors' Ridge. The ridge is broad and the line depends
entirely on how hard you want to push yourself, with easy ground
always providing an escape at any difficulties. The ridge eventually
peters out into the bouldery slopes leading to the summit of Glyder
Fawr.
Glyder Fawr's distinctive rock
spikes by Tony Didcock - Mostly
Snowdonia
Descent There are several possible descents from Glyder Fawr,
including reversing Seniors' Ridge to Cwn Cneifion and taking the
path back to Llyn Idwal, or the well known Devil's Kitchen path.
To complete a good day's scrambling perhaps the best descent is to
go round the rim of Cwm Cneifion and descent the grade 1 scramble of
Gribin Ridge. You could even traverse the Glyders and drop down
Bristly Ridge into Bwlych Tryfan and return to Ogwen Cottage from
there.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.
