The best scramble in Britain, complete with a gibber factor of five reduced slightly by a large boulder which has partially filled in the extremely exposed notch that is Tower Gap...
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Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis
- Western Highlands
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Grade: 5 / Diff climb
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Overview: the ultimate British
scramble! Tower Ridge is to scrambling what The Isle of Man
TT is to motorcycling, it just doesn't get any
better.
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Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes
and a head for heights essential!
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On line
map link
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Views: 4 - Great views on the days
when you can see anything at all ;-)
Technicality: 4 -
Exposure: 5 - gibbering huge drops, particularly at Tower
Gap
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GIBBER FACTOR*
*out of
five.
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Overview Tower Ridge - the ultimate British scramble! Tower Ridge
is to scrambling what The Isle of Man TT is to motorcycling, it just
doesn't get any better.
OK some scrambles are longer, some are steeper, some are
technically harder - but Tower Ridge takes the best combination of
all that makes scrambling fun and puts it all together in a single
ridge to the summit of Britain's highest montain.
Once you have Tower Ridge safely ticked off in your log book you
also know that you can cope with pretty much anything that scrambling
routes can throw at you - you've just made the transition from
scrambler to mountaineer
Note Tower Ridge is at the very edge of what is considered to be a scramble. Some guidebooks grade it as a Diff rock climb and in winter it merits a grade III rating for its length and exposure. It's not a route for the inexperienced scrambler, best to cut your teeth elsewhere.
Bear in mind that in winter conditions, Tower Ridge is a serious,
graded winter climb with a reputation for forced benightments so
leave well alone unless you're an experienced winter mountaineer.
Something like Ledge Route is a better starter ridge / buttress
route.
Approach From the car park near
Torlundy follow the
signposted path to join the Allt a' Mhuillinn. Keep the stream to
your left and ascend into the obvious bowl of Corrie Leis to the
Charles Inglis Clark
(CIC) Hut. The hut is almost directly
below the base of Tower Ridge.
Route Identifying the ridge is no problem, with the impressive
Douglas Boulder obvious instantly - this "boulder" is a 300m
high lump of rock that provides an alternative, climbing grade,
start.
Once you've identified the boulder, move east around its base to
the bottom of Observatory Gully. Once the angle of the rock on the
right eases scramble up into the start of Eastern Gully and a
grassy bay.
From here ascend the scree to the obvious Douglas Gap
above. A 20m leftwards slanting chimney leads up to the crest of the
ridge on good holds, though the rock is a bit polished. Exit the
chimney to the left onto the main ridge and easier ground.
The ridge steepens again, and heads towards a section of
overhanging rock. Move right here onto a ledge and a scramble back up
to the crest of the ridge. The next obstacle is The Little
Tower, which is more of a significant steepening than an actual
"tower". The best route here takes the left hand edge, with big drops
below, onto a narrow ledge. From a small platform move back slightly
right and climb up good holds to regain the ridge above the Little
Tower.
Easy ground now leads to the base of The Great Tower. This
is as much a "crux" as the fabled Tower Gap further on, but it also
marks the point of no return. Climb the first two steep sections to
gain the Eastern Traverse on the left. This traverses round
the edge of the Great Tower to a large block which ends the traverse.
Escape Route At this point you
can go left where a large boulder lies close to the main cliff to
access a scree ledge into the upper part of Eastern Gully, and a
scree climb to the summit plateau.
To continue the ascent of the ridge go through the gap between the
boulder and the main face and emerge onto steep, exposed, ground
(rope advisable) leading back up onto the ridge above The Great
Tower.
The next section demands a head for hights and fast but safe
movement. With frightening drops to either side the traverse of the
ridge to Tower Gap is as exposed a spot as you're likely to
find, and particularly dangerous in high winds. Continue along the
ridge to Tower Gap, where things have got easier recently as a block
has detatched from the wall and fallen directly into the gap.
Again a rope is advisable here, as you lower yourself from a
projecting block into the gap. Cross the small gap to the far wall,
and climb a series of small cracks and holds on the left. The ridge
steepens one more time ahead, but a path leads left to right to a
ledge and short groove. This leads to the summit plateau and end of a
scramble that will live in your mind for ever.
The summit of Ben Nevis lies off to the left , where you can join
the "normal" route back down the mountain.
Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly
at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to
minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction
or climb with an experienced partner.