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Scramble Route - Tower Ridge

The best scramble in Britain, complete with a gibber factor of five reduced slightly by a large boulder which has partially filled in the extremely exposed notch that is Tower Gap...


Posted: 28 November 2005
by Dave Mycroft

Tower Ridge, Ben Nevis - Western Highlands

Grade: 5 / Diff climb

Overview: the ultimate British scramble! Tower Ridge is to scrambling what The Isle of Man TT is to motorcycling, it just doesn't get any better.

Equipment: Rope, slings and nuts/hexes and a head for heights essential!

On line map link

Views: 4 - Great views on the days when you can see anything at all ;-)
Technicality: 4 -
Exposure: 5 - gibbering huge drops, particularly at Tower Gap


GIBBER FACTOR*
*
out of five.



Overview
Tower Ridge - the ultimate British scramble! Tower Ridge is to scrambling what The Isle of Man TT is to motorcycling, it just doesn't get any better.

OK some scrambles are longer, some are steeper, some are technically harder - but Tower Ridge takes the best combination of all that makes scrambling fun and puts it all together in a single ridge to the summit of Britain's highest montain.

Once you have Tower Ridge safely ticked off in your log book you also know that you can cope with pretty much anything that scrambling routes can throw at you - you've just made the transition from scrambler to mountaineer

Note Tower Ridge is at the very edge of what is considered to be a scramble. Some guidebooks grade it as a Diff rock climb and in winter it merits a grade III rating for its length and exposure. It's not a route for the inexperienced scrambler, best to cut your teeth elsewhere.

Pic John Cameron from OM Gallery

Bear in mind that in winter conditions, Tower Ridge is a serious, graded winter climb with a reputation for forced benightments so leave well alone unless you're an experienced winter mountaineer. Something like Ledge Route is a better starter ridge / buttress route.


Approach From the car park near Torlundy follow the signposted path to join the Allt a' Mhuillinn. Keep the stream to your left and ascend into the obvious bowl of Corrie Leis to the Charles Inglis Clark (CIC) Hut. The hut is almost directly below the base of Tower Ridge.
Route
Identifying the ridge is no problem, with the impressive Douglas Boulder obvious instantly - this "boulder" is a 300m high lump of rock that provides an alternative, climbing grade, start.

Pic John Cameron from OM Gallery

Once you've identified the boulder, move east around its base to the bottom of Observatory Gully. Once the angle of the rock on the right eases scramble up into the start of Eastern Gully and a grassy bay.

From here ascend the scree to the obvious Douglas Gap above. A 20m leftwards slanting chimney leads up to the crest of the ridge on good holds, though the rock is a bit polished. Exit the chimney to the left onto the main ridge and easier ground.

The ridge steepens again, and heads towards a section of overhanging rock. Move right here onto a ledge and a scramble back up to the crest of the ridge. The next obstacle is The Little Tower, which is more of a significant steepening than an actual "tower". The best route here takes the left hand edge, with big drops below, onto a narrow ledge. From a small platform move back slightly right and climb up good holds to regain the ridge above the Little Tower.

Easy ground now leads to the base of The Great Tower. This is as much a "crux" as the fabled Tower Gap further on, but it also marks the point of no return. Climb the first two steep sections to gain the Eastern Traverse on the left. This traverses round the edge of the Great Tower to a large block which ends the traverse.

Escape Route At this point you can go left where a large boulder lies close to the main cliff to access a scree ledge into the upper part of Eastern Gully, and a scree climb to the summit plateau.

To continue the ascent of the ridge go through the gap between the boulder and the main face and emerge onto steep, exposed, ground (rope advisable) leading back up onto the ridge above The Great Tower.

The next section demands a head for hights and fast but safe movement. With frightening drops to either side the traverse of the ridge to Tower Gap is as exposed a spot as you're likely to find, and particularly dangerous in high winds. Continue along the ridge to Tower Gap, where things have got easier recently as a block has detatched from the wall and fallen directly into the gap.

Again a rope is advisable here, as you lower yourself from a projecting block into the gap. Cross the small gap to the far wall, and climb a series of small cracks and holds on the left. The ridge steepens one more time ahead, but a path leads left to right to a ledge and short groove. This leads to the summit plateau and end of a scramble that will live in your mind for ever.

The summit of Ben Nevis lies off to the left , where you can join the "normal" route back down the mountain.


Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.


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Discuss this story

Just seen the tower ridge 'scramble' in your weekly routes, I agree with what you say that TR is one of the best climbs in Britain, having only ever done it in winter so I cannot comment on the grade in summer.
However my guidebooks give it diff, I think In the past I have seen it graded V diff.
Can you please clarify what is currently the boundary between scrambling & climbing, lest in a couple of years we may all be doing scrambles with 5b & 5c, maybe even 6a pitch's on them. (english that is)

Posted: 28/11/2005 at 21:09

Kit,
Grading scrambles is a nightmare. One man's grade 4 is another man's grade 2 - and both grades are a climber's stroll. Wherever possible I go with the conventional grading given to scrambles that have previously been published.

Tower Ridge is universally graded as a Scottish grade 5 (English and Welsh only grade from 1 to 3) in all the publications I've seen.

As for where the boundary is between scrambling and rock climbing - that's almost impossible to given an objective answer that applies to everyone. The tradition crossover point lies around the diff/v diff climbing grade - but climbing grades tend to lower over time, while the standard of scrambles rarely changes. To many a scramble becomes a climb where the majority of the route has to be undertaken roped and using protection. In some ways I find it easier to think of a route that marks the limit of scrambling rather than a figure - and to me personally Tower Ridge is that limit. As I said in the description, this marks the transition from scrambler to mountaineer.

Obviously this answer can't be definitive to scrambling as a whole, but I hope it helps you understand how I give the routes on here their grades

Dave :)

Posted: 28/11/2005 at 22:46

Dave,
I think you are on dodgy ground here diffs are rock climbs, they are well documented in all area's by the national governing bodies guidebooks, why change the status.

Tower ridge is universally graded as a diff rock climb and has been included in SMC journals since it was first ascended in 1892.

You say grading scrambles is a nightmare,the reason you are having problems is because are trying to merge scrambles with climbs.

What you are doing is introducing another grading system, if the grades keep creeping up you will end up like the australian system where 19 is approx HVS, 20 E1, 25 is E5.

In this country we already have our own traditional system E6 7a, french sport grades 7a,7b,7c etc.
Then we have bouldering grades-font 7a, 7b, 7c etc.
Ice climbing grades, and dry ice tooling grades.
Now you you are introducing the australian system.

You are adding unnecessary confusion to an already complex issue.

Fast forward to OM 12/05/2015

Did a fantastic (myford)grade 25 scramble on gogarth main cliff last weekend called Positron, best pitch in Wales.

Posted: 29/11/2005 at 09:23

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