Scramble Route: Aonach Eagach Ridge

Aonach Eagach Ridge - Glencoe, West Highlands

Grade: 2 or 3

Overview: Long and exposed knife-edged ridge traverse that runs down one side of Glencoe, think Crib Goch on steroids. Stunning views across to the Three Sisters and down to the road below with Matchbox cars. There are no safe escape routes once you're committed to the ridge. The route isn't technically hard, but is incredibly exposed. In winter it's a grade III climb.

Equipment: Ropes, slings and nuts/hexes possibly useful for exposed sections with novices.

On line map link

Views: 4* - tremendous atmosphere with views across and into Glencoe. Technicality: 3 - hardest section is the initial downclimb from Am Bodach Exposure: 4 - guidebooks say 'airy' we say 'scary' ;-)

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GIBBER FACTOR* *out of five.

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The Aonach Eagach, or "Notched Ridge", is arguably the finest ridge traverse on the British mainland. A full crossing of the ridge is an all-day undertaking, and once committed there's no turning back.

The knife edge crest between Am Bodach and Sgorr nam Fiannaidh is totally exposed, with stunning views down into Glencoe and across to the Three Sisters, and there's no safe escape route. Traditionally the route is taken East to West, as the approach to Am Bodach is an easier proposition than starting from the West - although the lure of the Clachaig Inn at the end may also have an influence.

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Approach There are several approaches to the Aonach Eagach.

The classic route starts at the car park at NN173 567, just west of Allt-na-ruigh. The path leads from the car park up the South-East shoulder of Am Bodach.

Alternative starts include an ascent of A'Chailleach from "The Study", at the eastern end of the Aonach Eagach. If using this approach head for the small hut on the right hand side of the crag, then take your choice of route over a series of slabs and short climbs to the conspicuous "orange band".

At the orange band take the furthest right of the three small chimneys then continue along a large ledge and past the obvious boulder to an easy climb up to the ridge.

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Route

Follow the south-east shoulder of Am Bodach, with a wide choice of terrain from steep walking to scrambling up the small outcrops - depending on what you want to do. On reaching the summit of Am Bodach (943m) the route becomes obvious as the knife edge running away to the West.

Once you leave the summit you soon reach the point of no return, with a steep climb down a series of ledges on the right hand side. As you approach a rock tower look out for the large boulder, where you should drop down to your left. The route down now trends left following an obvious path on slightly loose rock before a slab is reached on the right. Take the slab down to an old post and much easier ground onto the main ridge.

Superb views across to the Three Sisters opposite

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From this point the ridge offers little choice along the edge as you climb to the summit of Meall Dearg. From this point on not only is there no easy return, but many of the difficulties are also unavoidable, with mind-blowing drop-offs to both sides.

The section between Meall Dearg and Stob Coire Leith is what gave the crest its name "Notched Ridge", as a series of drops and pinnacles serrate the edge. Along this section "keep left" is generally the easiest way to avoid those difficulties, though the path should be obvious in anything but snow.

Follow the narrow crest of the ridge to a short gully, which can be taken direct or avoided to the left and continue to the col. Scramble back up the other side on solid slabs and continue ahead, passing a line of small pinnacles to the left - or take them direct if you don't mind the exposure, especially on the descent from the final one.

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Continue along the exposed ridge as it narrows and approaches the "Crazy Pinnacles". This is the most exposed part of the route, and there is no way of circumventing these pinnacles, but the rock is solid and the holds obvious.Once past the final pinnacle you have a choice of keeping slightly to the right or taking the "Easy" grade climb back up the other side of the gap to regain the ridge.

From here the ridge is obvious and mainly flat as it twists along to the final summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaith, via Stob Coire Leith.

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Descent

To descend to the Clachaig Hotel: continue past the summit of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh and trend left towards the ovious shoulder. Just beyond the tip of Clachaig Gully a steep, loose path follows the shoulder down on the right of the gully. DANGER - this route down is steep, unstable and at the end of a long hard day can be particularly dangerous.

To descend to Glencoe: from the summitt of Sgorr nam Fiannaidth continue on the ridge for about 650 metres to a small summit then go North-West over Cnap Glas to a col. Turn left here and follow an obvious path down to the road. Turn Right for Glencoe or left for the Clachaig Hotel.

To descend to Loch Antriochtan: a scree hollow on the south flank of Sgorr nam Fiannaidh offers a steep but direct route down to the Loch. Keep to the left on the descent for easier ground.

WARNING Between Meall Dearg and Stob Corie Leith there are no safe descent routes.

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Caution Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.