The first of our new bi-weekly scramble route guides covers what is arguably the best scramble on the Snowdon massif and, possibly, the best in the area. Enjoy :-)
Clogwyn Y Person Arete - Snowdonia Grade: 2 or 3 depending on exact route Overview: classic steep scramble onto Snowdon's Crib y Ddysgl from a wild, quiet cwm. A superb but harder alternative to Crib Goch. Equipment: Ropes, slings and nuts/hexes essential. On line map link Views: 3* views of both the Glyderau and Crib Goch GIBBER FACTOR* *out of five.
Clogwyn Y Person Arete - Snowdonia
Grade: 2 or 3 depending on exact route
Overview: classic steep scramble onto Snowdon's Crib y Ddysgl from a wild, quiet cwm. A superb but harder alternative to Crib Goch.
Equipment: Ropes, slings and nuts/hexes essential.
On line map link
Views: 3* views of both the Glyderau and Crib Goch
GIBBER FACTOR* *out of five.
The route follows the blocky crest up onto Snowdon proper Bigger version
The rock is solid and grippy, and protection is available everywhere you need it. You get a choice of Grade 2 and Grade 3 starts, and the natural line of the route gives the feeling of a an alpine ascent - In winter this makes a classic grade III.
From the ridge itself you get stunning views left to Crib Goch and back over the Glyderau.
Start from the layby at NGR SH 623 570, near the Climbers Club hut at Ynys Ettws. Cross the Afon Gennog and work your way steadily upwards and South East for just over half a mile through Cwn Glas Mawr, following a narrow but obvious path.
On approaching the head of Cwm Glas Mawr follow the obvious stream up into Cwm Glas. Follow the stream to the left and Llyn Back. From here The Clogwyn Y Person Arete is unmissable as the stark ridge of the arete dominating the view to the left. As you get closer, you can see that the tip of the nose is detached.
There are two choices when it comes to starting, and you need to choose carefully as one is a grade 2 and other a grade 3. The very end of the arete terminates in The Parsons Nose, a slabby buttress that gives a grade 3 scramble/Diff climb on the right wall to the top of a gully that almost slices the ridge in two.
Sometimes steep, but thankfully well protected lower down on the route Bigger version
The route now follows the blunt line of the crest of the ridge up a series of blocks. Avoid heading too far out to the right, particularly in the early stages where you can easily find yourself on a V Diff climb. The best line is to take the ridge as directly as you feel capable of, and one of the beauties of this route is the way that the harder sections have the better quality rock.
The early section of the scramble comprises of a series of short walls with ledges in between. Wherever there's a trickier section there's always a handy crack to stick a runner for protection, and unless you move too far to one side the exposure isn't excessive. As you move higher up the ridge the angle slowly eases and the rock becomes interspersed with ever larger scree platforms till eventually you break out onto the broad Crib Y Ddysgl ridge.
From here you go straight on along the well trodden path over Garnedd Ugain to reach the path upto Snowdon summit. Although only a grade 2 scramble in the main, this route has big drop offs, and a few nervy positions, so a rope and two or three slings and a couple of hexes, is pretty much essential.
Scrambling is potentially dangerous and, particularly at the higher grades, requires technical skills and equipment to minimise the risk. We suggest that you take professional instruction or climb with an experienced partner.
Posted: 12/02/2007 at 09:56
Posted: 13/02/2007 at 16:00
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