How To: Tea House Trekking To Everest

Trekking independently in the Everest area of Nepal is a lot more straightforward than you might think, Paul Lewis of Peak Mountaineering tells you how.

Posted: 27 June 2012
by Paul Lewis

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The author of this article, Paul Lewis runs Peak Mountaineering in the Peak District, and specialises in all mountain activities and training. See  www.peakmountaineering.com. Paul is a qualified mountain instructor and a member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors.

He is also a Kayak and Mountain Biking Instructor, ITC First Aid Trainer, Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society (FRGS), Leading Practitioner of the Institute of Outdoor Learning (LPIOL) and Qualified Teacher.


Teahouse Trekking in the Khumbu

Nepal is a magical adventure destination.  Home to eight of the world’s 14 peaks over 8000 metres.  A country with inspiring and friendly locals and a well developed infrastructure for trekking – Nepal really should be on everyone’s must visit list.  But, until you’ve been there, you might not realise just how easily you can get to be up close and personal with the Big E, enjoy the ambience of a remote Khumbu lodge or sample the delight that is Dhal Bhat (a traditional Nepalese dish).  Here’s the low down to get you up and trekking.

When to go

The most popular trekking period is the post monsoon months of October and November.  During this time the weather is usually stable and the visibility excellent.  The downside is that this is also the busiest trekking period.  A good alternative is the pre monsoon period of March to May.  During this time there is lots of new spring growth but conditions are generally a bit more variable. 

Getting there and life in Kathmandu

Flying to Kathmandu from the main UK airports is pretty easy.  Shop around and you’ll probably get a return fare around £600 (it also depends how close to departure you book).  Once you get to Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International airport it is easy to get a taxi to your hotel.  Most tourists stay in the Thamel District and it’s a great option with its mix of Nepalese style venues (for great Nepalese food try the Thakiki restaurant on Z Street) alongside westernised options (Sam’s Bar is well frequented by expeditioners and the pizzas at the Roadhouse Restaurant are great).  

You’ll also easily be able to pick up any equipment and food you might need for your adventures and there’s well stocked bookshops selling a full range of maps and guides alongside all the books you could ever want to read on epic Himalayan ascents.  There’s also a stack of internet cafes and welcoming craft and gift stores to wander around.  In Thamel you’ll easily find accommodation catering for all budgets.  At the cheaper end it is hard to beat the Kathmandu Guesthouse or Holy Lodge but there are over 100 to choose from.  They do get busy so book ahead.


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Discuss this story

I have just come back from the area, and would recommend it to anyone. I spent 28 days hiking (base camp, plus the 3 passes, and trekking into and out of the area).

I was fine with a 36litre bag, carried everything myself, and could have packed even lighter.

Instead of flying in, trek from Jiri (10hour bus ride from Kathmandu). It makes you much better acclimatised (you reach 3500m on the 2nd day, after climbing 2000m), the scenery is very different, and its MUCH QUIETER.

I also hiked out to Tumlingtar in the East, and saw 2 foreigners in 5 days. Also very different scenery.

Anyway, all of the locals are great and the tea-houses make like very easy.

Posted: 27/06/2012 at 20:59

I've also trekked in from Jiri and, if you have the time to do it, I'd absolutely recommend it. You trek through a range of different environments, starting in lush cloud forest-type terrain and gain height and views more gradually and the trail before Lukla is, as Pete, says above, much quieter with a different feel.

Ther's a great moment at a place called Everest View where you see Everest for the first time from a distance - it's a tiny rocky pyramid in the corner which looks nothing like the highest mountain in the world.

If anyone's looking for a guide book to the area, I've found the Trailblazer series to be spot on for both Everest and Annapurna areas.

Posted: 28/06/2012 at 10:50

Having done this exact trip with Peak Mountaineering in 2010, I thoroughly recommend it.

It was an outstanding couple of weeks and despite the occasional altitude struggle, makes me smile just thinking about it.

Best holiday ever......so far!

Posted: 28/06/2012 at 13:23

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