Pacific Crest Journal 2

John Manning of TGO Magazine is off in the States walking the 2,650-mile Pacific Crest Trail, quite a few of you were wondering how he's getting on with the bears, the through hikers and the cacti, so here's the here's the second of his updates from the trail.

For more information about the PCT, see the Pacific Crest Trail Association web site. Unfortunately John hasn't been able to send us any pics, but if you want an idea of the sort of awesome scenery he's hiking right now, check out this picture gallery :-)

I'm in Tehachapi after crossing one of the tougher sections of the PCT in the company of Mancunian Ian Schofield, brewer of the finest British ales this side of the Atlantic.

Ian took advantage of a weekend wedding in LA to travel down from his home further north in California to join me for three days beforehand - his dates dictated that we crossed the Mojave desert together. It was hot, dry and tough underfoot - Ian's blisters are hopefully recovering by now - but we were fortunate in having cloud and a strong wind to cool things.

Wind: this area is covered in thousands of those evil wind turbine things. So far the weather throughout the trip has been amazing - we've had warmth, when many years crossings have had snow, and cloud, and breezes when it should be scorching hot. This last stretch the temps only hit 99 degrees F. Which is cool. Nearest it come to rain was yesterday when clouds blew down from the pass while we waited at Tehachapi Willow Springs Road for Ian's wife to bring us to Tehachapi.

Recent PCT highlights have included the Saufleys' in Agua Dulce where I spent three nights along with 50 other hikers (a record) doing laundry, shopping trips etc. I replaced some gear, in LA, cruised Colorado Boulevard in Pasadena (where the little Old Lady comes from), and generally didn't sleep much due to the crowds.

Beers, taco, salad and more

Also stayed in the garden at the Andersons in Green Valley - their home, Casa Luna, is an ongoing party. These trail angels drive to the trailhead several times a day to recruit more hikers for their party - beers, taco, salad and more is always available. Great relaxing night's sleep under a tree in the garden there.

We also called in at Hiker Town, a strange place that's probably even stranger than when the Late Jack Fair ran it. One of the creepier nights of the trail so far - odd job man John spent the night relating tales from his favourite prisons; we all slept in threes in trailers scattered around the desert there to be a little surer of coming out alive.

So you're thinking what's happened to this wilderness trail experience I'm supposed to be having? Me too. In part it's become one big, fluid, moving party, travelling through some astonishing landscapes. The Mojave stretch was made memorable by numerous Joshua Tree woodlands on the floor of the Antelope valley and the spotting of a coyote there. That was a dry stretch - only two flowing streams within 40-odd miles.

Camping on Baden Powell

Other recent highlights have included camping on top of Mt Baden Powell - great sunset and sunrise, and great moving sea of cloud stretching to the horizon, us on an island of rock above it - despite such strong winds that tents couldn't be erected without being blown away. Enjoyed the experience so much I've slept in the open ever since - My PHD sleeping bag is so warm I've noticed neither winds nor cold.

Wildlife sightings include Big Horn Sheep and one couple have seen bear twice. Lucky devils.

Recent landscape, apart from the desert, not too thrilling - head high bushes blocking views of more head high bushes; trails winding senselessly around private properties.

Future looks green , mountainous and promising, with no e-mail contact.,

Gotta go - I'm half way through and thrown off again!

Have fun all

Love and cheers,

John Manning

Hiking the Pacific Crest Trail