The Forgotten Faroes

The Faroe Islands or The Forgotten Islands?

There are times when company on the hills is appreciated, but what drives my passion for the outdoors is the solitude of the wilderness - losing myself in the magical pretence that I could be in anywhere in time and space. The chance to rewind over 5000 years when man lived in such a way, even if for only a few days.

Kalsoy looking rather Torridonian. Click here for bigger version

After ditching my daypack in the search for something more challenging, backpacking looked like the next rung on the ladder. Like most British walkers the familiar mountain ranges enabled me to undertake two- to three-day walks, which were immensely satisfying and the constant reminder that I was carrying everything that I could possibly need was more a relief than a hindrance. Like many walkers the search for something unique always left me feeling slightly empty at the end of a challenging weekend.

Fortunately, I am one of few outdoor enthusiasts whose career enables them to spend several months in the outdoors every year, and as part of my PhD into climate change, I embarked upon a month's study in the Faroe Islands.

The Faroe Islands are somewhat the 'forgotten Islands', hundreds of miles from the nearest landmass it's easy to deny their existence. When I mentioned to acquaintances where I was going this Summer, the usual response was a muted 'Oh that'll be nice'. Egypt the Faroe Islands are not!

Nr Kvivik, Streymoy 618m - click here for larger version

A cluster of 18 emerald Islands rising from the inhospitable Atlantic Ocean between Iceland and Scotland, 113 Km north to south, 75 Km from east to west. Climatically, the islands remain at the mercy of what the Atlantic Ocean decides to inflict upon their basaltic structure. Luckily, the warm waters of the Gulf Stream meet a deflected cold polar current from Iceland producing an equable oceanic climate, with a mean annual temperature variation between the coldest and warmest months of only 7-degrees C. It's common, in the Faroe Islands, to experience rapid changes in weather conditions and the sudden influx of sea mist, which can stubbornly remain for hours, even days, or pass in an instant.

To the geologist, ornithologist, ecologist, walker and climber, these islands offer mountain to coast, lake to fjord, puffins, guillemots, razor-bills, and an unique flora environment. It is difficult to comprehend the existence of such islands in the midst of the North Atlantic.

It became instantly apparent when arriving in the Faroes, that they had something very special to offer. The unique solitude experience I had been searching for was staring me blatantly in the face. Mile upon mile of wilderness, mountains, glaciated valleys, fjords, sea cliffs rising 725 metres from the sea, ridge walks that would make the infamous Crib Goch look positively timid and challenge the Black Cuillins of Skye.

The highest peak is Slattaratindur on the Island of Esturoy at 882m, and although there are no mountains over 3000ft, there are 90 plus of 2000ft or more, which should not be underestimated - to reach some of these summits climbing experience would be essential.

It is their volcanic origin, which lends itself to their dramatic geological structure, formed in Tertiary times from submarine outpourings of basaltic lava (Schei & Moberg, 1991). These basalt layers form very steep mountains, often presenting an inviting pyramidal mountain structure.

View from Skaelingsvata. Click here for larger version

One of the most notable floral characteristics in the Faroe Islands is the lack of wild trees and bushes, presenting bare slopes with a very active geomorphology of screes and debris cones. The extensive sheep population, coupled with fierce gales and salt-laden air does not create a happy environment for. Even so, the climate does favour numerous perennial plants, arctic and alpine vegetation.

The Faroe Islands' population and settlement somewhat blends into the environment. Tørshavn is the Capital City with a population exceeding 15,000 - the total population is 45,000 - with its increasing prosperity and cosmopolitan feel, it is somewhat becoming the 'bright light' of the islands with more people moving there each year from the more remote areas. I was rather surprised at the friendliness of the population and how welcoming they were to the British, also the modern facilities of the City, night clubs, pubs, numerous shops, hotels, B and B's and Youth Hostels, and I thought Aberdeen was my last port of civilisation!

However, one only has to drive mere miles out from the city to be presented with steep mountains and vegetated slopes falling dramatically to the deep azure of the Atlantic Ocean. Settlements after this are small habitations brightly coloured, but with a tasteful and welcoming allure. Commonly, one observes the Faroese tending to their grass crops in their fields, due to the steepness of the slopes and this necessary chore, the slopes are often terraced several hundred metres up the mountain sides to support the farming of this crop.

Walking and climbing are not common past-times for the Faroese people, who compement the wild landscape. On reading the Faroese tourist guide on walking in the mountains I was deeply amused. Considering the common occurrence of mist, which can pass in moments or remain for hours, even days, the brochure stated, 'If whilst walking in the mountains and one suddenly finds oneself surrounded by mist, sit down and wait until it clears'.

'Sit down and wait until it clears...'

Very droll, I have these images of groups of walkers marooned on summits, after following the advice of the Tourist Information Centre! This did raise an interesting point with regard to navigation within my mind. Although I'm not a fervent promoter of the GPS system, as I believe it somewhat takes the fun out of navigation in the hills, I'm inclined to waver on my objection when it comes to the Faroe Islands. I think that a GPS is imperative, not only due to the sudden influx of mist but also the basaltic geology that would affect compass readings and furthermore the poor maintenance of the cairns. The cairns were once invaluable to the Faroese to enable safe crossings via the mountain tops into neighbouring valleys, with the construction of tunnels and roads they have become poorly distinguishable upon the mountain pathways.

Unfortunately, as I was in the Faroe Islands for research I didn't get the chance to do as much walking as I would have, but I was so enraptured by these Islands and what they had to offer to British walkers and climbers, that I felt I had to express my experience and encourage more people to visit these enchanting Islands. Contrary to the widespread opinion of the poor wet summer climate, I experienced more dry days than wet and returned with a healthy tan. Luckily, I have the opportunity to return next summer to undertake more fieldwork, however I intend to take my holiday out there are tackle some of the peaks, particularly on the Island of Esturoy, which offers the most dramatic walking. So when planning your walking holiday next summer just take a glance northwards at this small cluster of Islands, I strongly recommend it!

Francesca Killen

References Schei, L.K., and Moberg, G. 1991. The Faroe Islands. John Murray. Further Information •The Faroe Islands are accessible by Ferry from Aberdeen, via the Shetland Islands. Contact Scottish P&O ferries and Smyril-line for more details. • Weekly flights depart from Glasgow and Aberdeen to the Faroe Islands. • There are numerous Youth Hostels and Camping sites on most of the main Islands. • From early May until late August the sun brightens and the night shortens thus extending the day. At some point during this period daylight is almost 24 hours. • An excellent web-site with more information and photos is; www.puffin.fo/travel/ • For more information do not hesitate to contact me; Email: Francesca.killen@talk21.com