Trekking Southern Utah - A Sandstone Odyssey

A snap-happy ramble around some of the world's weirdest rocks ...


Posted: 16 May 2007
by Susan

Trekking? Well, leisurely rambling actually. This is a 'short walks' edition of our travel features, but with one via-ferrata-esque hike thrown in for good measure, and enough snap-happy moments to keep a would-be Colin Prior happy.

The prospect of trekking in the USA rapidly conjures up alluring place names like 'Yosemite', but we discovered a few other haunts on the far side of the big pond that made the mind boggle. In the north of Utah, Salt Lake City has some pretty handy mountains - think skiing in April a few hours' drive from a desert - and down south the loss of contour lines has its compensations. Here are some of them ...

for UK walks and scrambles, or browse the travel section for other foreign ventures.
Arches National Park

Delicate ArchNearest Town: Moab, Southeastern Utah

Favourite Walk: The afternoon convection storms did their stuff with gusto when we visited Arches, so we had to plum for one of the short, accessible walks. Not to worry, there are plenty of those with a view - perhaps not to die for, but at least to fly across the Atlantic for.

Delicate Arch is the picture-perfect option, and we were easily sold on it. It's only about half an hour's walk (quick check on the sky - do we have an hour's grace? Maybe ...) but it takes you through every shade of red and green rock on route to the ultimate postcard producer's party. The photo says it all - and that's just the point-and-shoot amateur version. Reach the arch at an odd time of day to have it to yourself.

More Arches Pics

Bryce Canyon

Bryce CanyonNearest Town: Cannonville

Favourite Spot: We only passed through Bryce Canyon on our way to Zion, so this time it's just a top spot, rather than a walk. Stunning viewpoints cluster close to the park entrance, including Fairyland Point, Sunset Point, and Sunrise Point, which is where we took this photo from. It isn't exactly secluded - there'll be other cameras clicking and whirring alongside you - but for once we didn't mind.

With more time on hand, you can hike along the rim of the canyon (there's a 5.5 mile trail evocatively name 'Rim Trail') or even better, descend into it. The Fairyland Trail and Peekaboo trails offer the latter option - bear in mind the 800ft drop (and re-ascent) when deciding how much water to carry.

More Bryce Canyon pics

Zion

View from Angels' LandingNearest Town: Springdale

Favourite Hike: A proper one this time! We clambered up to Angels' Landing, which is an aptly named perch with a sheer drop on three sides and stunning views both up and down the canyon. It's only a five mile round walk - with 1500 feet of ascent - but it's rather a vertiginous one. Scott's Lookout offers a scenic bale-out point half way up, if anyone's had enough. If not, climb the slightly precipitous path, making use of some good chunky cables in the rock, although you can also manage without these. The eagle's eyrie topout is well worth the climb.

There are plenty more trails, both shorter and longer, listed at the National Park Centre. It's a great place for sandstone climbing too, as you'll notice if you look up at the sheer canyon walls and manage to spot the parties of climbers perched on improbable ledges above you. We fancy a more direct approach to Angels' Landing next time around ...

More Zion Pics

Logistics

LogisticsFlights to the USA: Las Vegas is the cheapest place to fly to direct from London. Its hustle and bustle will make you appreciate the trekking more as well - legend has it there's a casino or two around the place, although of course we can't vouch for that:-)

Internal Transport: Getting around without a car isn't easy, so hiring's probably the way to go. For those who try and leave their engines switched off as much as possible, Zion National Park has joined the Park and Ride revolution - very successfully - so you can give the motor a rest for a while at least. Park at the National Park Centre and jump on the shuttle buses, which stop at the start of most popular trekking routes.

Trekking Permits: You'll need to get your sweaty paws on one of these if you want to camp or have a go at any longer treks. For shorter hiking options (including all of those listed here) there's no paperwork involved.

Hazards

Hazards

  • Flash Floods - These are most likely in July and August but can happen without warning at any time, and they're pretty lethal. A couple of feet of water rolling towards you might not sound much, but it can bowl you over more effectively than Steve Harmison (even when he's on form). In heavy storms, avoid narrow places.
  • Dehydration - Southern Utah's pretty toasty in the summer - legend has it that's a common problem with deserts:-) Carry lots of water, then add a bit more just to be on the safe side.
  • Rattle snakes - Watch your tread, and if you see one, backing off is your job not theirs.
  • American Customs! - The immigration queue moves slower than a slug with a heavy backpack, so bring plenty of patience and a good book to get you through it.

And much more ...

There are as many national parks in southern Utah as there is time to view them. Those we haven't mentioned include Capitol Reef (which lies between Arches and Bryce Canyon) and Canyonlands (to the south of Arches). There are plenty of impressive state parks too (that's the next step down from a national park). Utah's one of those places where arranging a bit of extra annual leave from work, or perhaps jacking in the job, would be really handy - although of course we'd never advise anyone to do that:-)

If the arid world of canyons and bizarre rock formations doesn't appeal, have a look at our routes section


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Discuss this story

very excellent article;most helpful

Posted: 17/05/2007 at 07:16

Seconded. Done some minor walking myself in the area, which is highly recommended.

Posted: 17/05/2007 at 19:59

Talkback: Trekking Southern Utah - A Sandstone Odyssey



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