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Hinkes Knocks It Off!

Great news direct from Nepal where Alan Hinkes has summited Kangchenjunga making him the first Briton ever to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-metre peaks. Including live comments from Alan at base camp.


Posted: 2 June 2005
by Jon

Yay, it's official, Alan Hinkes has summited Kangchenjunga becoming the first Briton to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-metre peaks and only the 13th climber ever to complete the feat.

Hinkes reached the top of Kangchenjunga, the world's third highest mountain at 8587 metres in company with his friend and climbing partner Pasang Gelu at 7pm on Monday. His summit push had been delayed by high winds, snow and poor conditions that led to other expeditions on the mountain abandoning their attempts, but a window of better weather allowed him to go for the summit earlier this week.

As ever, on the summit, Hinkes took out a photo of his daughter Fiona and his grandson Jay to have his summit photos taken -  something he's done on every one of his successful summit expeditions.

"The Hardest Climb Of My Life..."

Speaking live from base camp at 6,000 metres, Alan described what turned out to be an extremely arduous climb:

"The final summit push was without a doubt the hardest climb of my life.  We left base camp on Thursday 26 May and began to push up the mountain. The weather had not been good which meant there was an awful lot of fresh snow to break through. Risk of avalanche was incredibly high and every step of the way was a matter of physical and mental endurance.

"The snow was so deep that we were unable to make camp three and had to bivvy on the hillside at around 7400m.  We tried for a summit attempt on the 29 May but we were beaten back by the weather.

"A second summit attempt saw us leave at about 1am on the 30 May.  More snow had fallen but we made good time.  My climbing partner Pasang had to stop around 15 minutes short of the summit due to exhaustion. I reached the summit on the 30 May at around 7pm in driving snow and wind.  It was the worst summit conditions I can remember.  I took the obligatory photo spent around 10 minutes on the summit and then began my descent.

"It was about 9pm when I caught up with Pasang but with no head torch it was difficult to locate him and I honestly thought he was dead.  It was with great elation that I found him and we got back to the bivvy site around 27 hours after setting off on 31 May.

"The next couple of days saw us descending back to base camp through fresh snow with high risk of avalanche.  Getting back to base camp was one of the best feelings of my life.  I sat down in my tent and thought I've finally done it!"

We'd like to congratulate Alan and long time sponsors Berghaus, on an incredible feat of mountaineering endurance. We'll buy you a pint once you're back in the UK mate. Nice one :-)


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Discuss this story

What a fabulous achievement, especially given the conditions that forced all the others to turn back. Hope he has a safe & speedy return to Blighty.

A Brit to be proud of for a change. Let's see what sort of national recognition he gets. He definitely deserves more than most of our so-called national heroes and sportsmen.

And let's hope he manages to drink his pint before someone nicks it!!

Posted: 02/06/2005 at 14:18


Jez
Nice one Alan!!

Guess some one owes you a pint now...

Sir Alan of Berghaus perhaps?

Posted: 02/06/2005 at 14:33

Sir Alan of Cho Oyu?

Posted: 02/06/2005 at 14:35

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