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Hinkes Summits Dhaulagiri

Just one 8,000er to go for Brit' Alan Hinkes as he succeeds on the world's seventh highest peak despite conditions he describes as 'scary'. The record books beckon :-)


Posted: 19 May 2004
by Jon

Wahey! Great news from Nepal where Challenge 8000-man Alan Hinkes has successfully climbed Dhaulagiri, the 13th of his 14 8,000-metre peaks leaving him just one summit away from immortality, as Arsene Wenger might say.

Alan Hinkes on Annapurna - he always
carries a photo of Fiona, his daughter

Now just one mountain, Kangchenjunga, stands between Alan and his goal of becoming the first British climber to summit all 14 of the 8,000-metre peaks. The Berghaus-sponsored mountaineer reached the top of the world's seventh highest peak at noon on Monday - 17 May - in tough conditions.

Accompanied by his Nepalese friend and climbing partner Pasang Gelu, he posed for a summit shot, as always holding a photo of his daughter Fiona, before beginning the descent to base camp which he reached today, Wednesday.

Speaking direct to Berghaus after tucking into a welcome plate of eggs, chips and chapatis washed down with a mug of tea, Alan described the difficult conditions:

"The descent was incredibly scary, because the weather was becoming milder. Snow was melting and there was a lot of rock fall, which reminded me of my time on Nanga Parbat.

"A Slovenian expedition who reached the top a couple of days before me had climbed up virtually in their shirt sleeves. However, by the time I reached the summit on the 17th it was starting to cloud over. My first bivouac on descending was at 7,400m and it almost took off in the wind. On my way down I spent each night without a sleeping bag, managing in just my insulated clothing in a bivi.

"This has been a really tough expedition and a great effort from all of my team out here. I've successfully made it to the summit of Dhaulagiri and returned safely, which is always my main aim. All that stands in my way of climbing all 14 8000m peaks is Kangchenjunga and my focus over the next year will of course be on this final Challenge 8000 summit. For now though I want to get home, see Fiona and have a well earned rest!"

We'd just like to say well done to Alan and everyone who's supported him along the way so far. For more information and an interview see the links below or check out the Berghaus web site.


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Mounteverest.net are disputing Alan Hinkes' attempt to become the first Brit to climb the 14 8000 metre peaks. In an article that also reprints an accusation of him refusing to help a badly injured climber, but videoing him bleeding, the summiting of Cho Oyo is disputed.

"News reports also began to surface this morning that said Alan's Challenge 8000 project now only has one more 8,000er to go, saying Dhaulagiri was his lucky 13. In fact Dhauli was his 12th; he was not on the highest point of Cho Oyu and therefore it does not count" claims www.mounteverest.net/story/AlanHinkesreappears-bagshis12thMay192004.shtml

Everestnews at www.everestnews2004.com/everestnews3/alanhinkes2004dis3.htm also carries the news of Alan's success on Dhaulagiri, but lists it as his 13th - as does Beghaus and Alan Hinkes himself..

Is there any "official" list anywhere? Given local traditions on certain mountain tops like Kangchejunka, where it is sacriligous to stand on the exact highest point, how close do you have to be to the top for it to class as a summit?


Posted: 19/05/2004 at 19:16

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Posted: 19/05/2004 at 19:17

Summits are the highest points of mountains in my book. Alan has said that he will only be 3 feet below the "actual" summit of Kangchenjunga so his head will be above the summit!

If he says he's summitted Cho Oyu I believe him - the writer of the (unattributed) piece on mountereverest.net seems to be carrying a few issues, to say the least!

Posted: 19/05/2004 at 19:31

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