Just read the article about the Chamonix guides closing the normal routes for business to Mt Blanc.
I have just returned from a trip to Chamonix and have never seen these incredible mountains in such bad condition. The glaciers were in terrible condition. Many crevasses gaping more than usual. Warnings were posted regarding Mt Blanc du Tacul from the middle of July. The normal route being graded PD- but now going a good deal harder with a difficult steep ice pitch to cross the bergschrund. The ice section of the Frendo spur on the Aig du Midi was virtually non existent and apparently the ice tunnel giving access to the Midi-Plan arete collapsed. the start of the arete also had a large hole in it.
The advice of the Chamonix guides is good particularly as many who climb Mt Blanc are lacking in true mountaineering experience treating it as almost a treking peak. In these conditions it is far from it. Objective dangers are agood deal higher with more rock fall, higher risk of falling into crevasses as well as risk of seracs falling. The inexperienced should stay away or be sure to pick routes with extreme caution. We had hoped to do the Traverse of the Drus but opted out when we saw the condition of the Charpoua glacier. Conditions weren't even cold enough at 3am to risk crossing it. I climbed the Grepon by the Mer de Glace route and made an early start. Rock and ice/serac falls across the valley at the Charpoua glacier were very frequent. In fact that day a large section of the Drus came down. The large couloir on the Grepon had also had rock fall and looked due for another. We crossed it high up (the only place possible as it was so covered in sand and stones) at speed and then contacted the Envers hut to warn others off as an hour or two later there was regular rock fall down it...each being bigger than the last.
Well despite these conditions those routes less effected by the permafrost were in good condition...that is some of the rock routes. I climbed the salluard route on the Pointe Adolphe Rey....superb granite but the approach from Helbronner wasn't good with large open crevasses and very thin snow bridges. The Contamine/Vaucher route on the Peigne was in good nick and thoroughly enjoyable as was Le Piege on the Tour Verte. Other routes in the Aiguilles were good but take great care if descending the Charmoz or Grepon down the Nantillons Glacier. Very icy, little neve and the seracs look very impressive (dangerous)!
What are your experiences of climbing this year in these strange conditions? What warning would you give to others for the remainder of the summer Alpine season?
Posted: 18/08/2003 at 22:33
