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Two-Dayer - The Two Shepherds Of Etive

Two Buchailles for the price of one with this superb two-day route on the fringes of Glencoe.


Posted: 2 April 2007
by Dave Mycroft

Two-Dayer - The Two Shepherds of Etive, Scotland

Dalness> Ston na Cabar > Kingshouse > Ston Dearg > Dalness

Average Time: 11 hours 15 mins *

Distance: 24.75 miles (40Km)

Height Gain: 11122 ft (3390m)

A cracking circular two-dayer taking in both the shepherds of Etive, Buachaille Etive Mor and Buachaille Etive Beag.

Maps: OS Explorer 384

Online: Streetmap

Strenuousness: 4
Technicality: 1
Photo Grade: 4

Start Point: NN 166 510


There's nowhere in the UK that comes close to comparison with Scotland when it comes to mountains and scenery. This doesn't always mean, however, that it's simple to set up a two day walk.

The expanse of wilderness itself can be a barrier when trying to allow for a choice of accommodation options, with camp sites and settlements often further apart than feasible for if you need to return to your starting point.


Scott Blair's shot of the two shepherds, small one in front, biggy
to the rear - from his
OM album

One multi-dayer stands out though, with the perfect combination of classic and iconic peaks and a traditional resting place at the halfway point. Anyone travelling to Fort William will immediately recognise the much photographed Buachaille Etive Mor, which marks the descent into Glen Coe.

This route takes in not only "The great shepherd of Etive", but also its smaller sibling Buachaille Etive Beag - "The little Shepherd of Etive" in a circular route from the South West.

Linking the two peaks you take in a short section of the West Highland Way, one of the most popular long distance routes in the country, and an overnight at the Kingshouse on the edge of Rannoch Moor.


Section 1: Dalness to Stob nan Cabar

Distance: 4 miles (6.5Km)

Height Gain: 3702 ft (1130m)

Average Time: 3 hours 30 mins


Starting from the car park on the Glen Etive road a short walk through Dalness leads to a path on the left at the bend in the road. The path heads up through the trees, following the Allt Gartain as it climbs towards the obvious ridge lines ahead.

As you exit the trees two options lie ahead, either take the ridge on your left up directly to the summit of Stob Dubh. Alternatively continue along the Lairig Gartain to its high point where a steep path heads directly up to the left to reach the summit.

On top of Stob Dudh with lurking views - Frank Gehrich
from his
OM album

Once atop this Munro the ridge leads down, initially steeply and along a narrow arete as you descend towards a col, then climbs again to the top of Stob Corie Raineach.

Now the rock turns to grass and scree as you continue downhill to Stob nan Cabar at the end of the ridge, with Glen Coe to your left and the wide expanse of Rannoch Moor laid out below you.


Section 2: Stob nan Cabar to Kingshouse

Distance: 4.5 miles (7.3km)

Height Gain: 207 ft (63m)

Average Time: 2 hours


From Stob nan Cabar the first day is predominantly downhill towards the edge of Rannoch Moor. The ridge descends to the north east, where you need to pick your line carefully around the small crags, then drops to join the northern end of the Lairig Gartain.

The obvious path leads to a small car park on the main Glen Coe road, where you turn right and follow the road for half a mile to where it joins the wide path of the West Highland Way.

The going is easier now as you skirt the edge of Rannoch Moor heading for the obvious isolated building of the famous Kingshouse Hotel.


Section 3 - Kingshouse to Stob Dearg

Distance: 4.7 miles (7.6km)

Height Gain: 2589 ft (789m)

Average time: 3 hours 15 minutes


Day two starts from the Kingshouse, but where the West Highland Way splits from the road carry straight on to the main road. Cross the road diagonally and take the narrow path on the opposite side that runs alongside the A82, then sandwiched between the road and the small River Coupall.

As you approach the bend in the road you can't miss the isolated cottage at Lagangarbh and the start of the day's climb. A bridge crosses the River Coupall and heads across the moor into the start of Coire na Tulaich.

A classic view of Buchaille Etive Mor by Les McLean - OM Album

This coire slices through the steep nose of Buachaille Etive Mor and in one long continuous climb zig zags its way to the summit ridge. As you clear the headwall of the coire you emerge at a col with the summit of Stob Dearg just off to the North East.

From here the views across Rannoch Mor, 2000ft below, are truly stunning. This marks the high point of the walk in every way, with the 3345ft summit being the highest elevation of the route and a high level ridge traverse still lying ahead of you.


Section 4 - Stob Dearg to Dalness

Distance: 4.8 miles (7.8km)

Height Gain: 1223 ft (373m)

Average time: 2 hours 30 minutes


Although you lose the views of Rannoch Mor as you turn around to commence the ridge ahead, there's plenty ahead to distract the eye as you head across to Stob na Doire.

On Buchaille Etive Beag - by danmck from his OM Album

The ridge skirts Coire na Tulaich before turning left to first Stob na Doire then Stob Coire Altruim. Beyond Stob Coire Altruim the ridge eases and the gradients reduce 'til you reach the final top of Stob na Broige. From here you can descend north west to the high point of the Lairig Gartain, or take the ridge south west to reach the same path lower down.

All that remains now is to retrace your steps from the start of day one through the trees and your starting point at Dalness.


Route Map


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